Sailing around Key West

March 25, 2024

The dream and the reality

Today is our chance to see the sights of Key West, just as soon as we swing by the airport to get rid of the rental car. From there we pedal down to the Southernmost Point in the continental U.S. for the must-have photo op.

90 miles to Cuba from the Southernmost Point. No need to wait in line for a shot right next to the buoy; this is close enough.

I picked out a few points of interest to get a feel for the history of the island, starting with Truman's Little White House. President Harry S. Truman used this house for 175 days of his administration between 1945 and 1953.

While he was here Truman discussed the Marshall Plan to rebuild Europe, the Truman Doctrine that changed American foreign policy and the recognition of the State of Israel.

This Lincoln stretch limo, bought from a collector in 2021, is one of nine that were stationed at various cities around the country for his travels. For $645 you and five friends can take a ride in it.

We move on to Fort Zachary Taylor Historic State Park in time to catch the Ranger walk. Fort Taylor is the longest serving U.S. coastal fortification, used from 1861 to 1947.

The fort was built in the water 1,100 feet off the southwest point of Key West and reached from a well-guarded causeway and drawbridge. Later the area between the fort and the island was filled in.

Fort Taylor protected the harbor during the Civil War and was used during the First and Second World Wars

The fort was never fired upon, and never fired a shot.

The guys pass on the next stop - Ernest Hemingway's home, and go for a ride instead. I'm a huge fan of Hemingway and enjoy seeing where he lived and wrote when he was married to his second wife, Pauline Pfeiffer.

Hemingway's lean writing style with short sentences in plain English stripped of unnecessary words told the story and influenced generations of writers. He wrote some of his most successful novels here - A Farewell to Arms, For Whom the Bell Tolls, and Death in the Afternoon among others.

The house is situated on the highest point in Key West. It was considered one of the finest homes on the island when it was built in 1851 by Asa Tift, who made his fortune in shipwreck salvage.

Pauline Hemingway orchestrated a massive restoration of the house. There were some unusual choices for the climate in Key West, like fireplaces, and chandeliers to replace the ceiling fans that she thought looked tacky.

Cats with six toes roam the property, descendants of Hemingways's unusual kitty, Snow White.

Hemingway wrote 700 words every morning in this studio next to the house, then spent the rest of the day fishing and drinking. I could write here. It sure would be more pleasant without the gnats around the picnic table in the campsite.

On the way to meet up with Barry and Mike I ride down Duval Street, the main drag that runs from the Gulf of Mexico to the Atlantic.

Sloppy Joe's on Duval Street was Hemingway's favorite bar

The big treat for today is a late afternoon sail from the historic seaport. To fuel up ahead of time we return to the Boathouse Bar & Grill. I really like this place - good food and moderate prices for the area. The Ahi Tuna Salad is excellent.

I have grand notions for the boat trip. It's billed as a "late afternoon sail out to the coral reef" on a catamaran, with time to snorkle, free beer and a leisurely ride back around sunset time. Gazing at the sailboats in the harbor I imagine a romantic cruise under billowing sails, like the trips I took years ago with my Dad and Uncle Ray.

It's not that kind of boat.

We board the Miss Lora, a motorized catamaran. The tour company has taken some poetic license with the term "sail." They combined two groups since there weren't enough people signed up for either one. Our vessel is packed with dozens of people, more than the available seats.

In the plus side, the other tour we are joining is going to see dolphins in addition to snorkeling, booze and sunset viewing. That sounds like a bonus.

Unfortunately due to the high winds, we can't snorkel at the reef. Instead, the captain steers for the cove of one of the smaller keys to the west where the water won't be so choppy. They have a boat full of people with various levels of swimming skill and are managing their risk.

As we get close to the cove for snorkeling, we put on our PFDs and masks and queue up. Then they open the stairs down to the water and the crowd starts dropping in and fanning out from the bow of the boat.

A few people turn right around and climb back out, complaining of the cold water. I picture myself doing the same, then shivering in the wind waiting to wash off the sticky salt water and take my turn in the solitary changing room. I've snorkeled before in Maui and the Caribbean but this doesn't look like that much fun. We're not at the reef and whatever is down there is not tempting. Barry and Mike go on ahead but I hang back.

It's not long before Barry climbs out, reporting that there's nothing to see, just the grassy sea bottom. He says the water really isn't that cold but I'm feeling good about sitting this one out.

Once everyone is out of the water, the bar is open and we motor back towards the port to look for dolphins. We're heading straight into the wind that's already blowing at 22 miles an hour, not a pleasure cruise by any stretch. A lot of people are unprepared for the blast; even the crew members are shivering in their t-shirts. I guess it's wilder out there than usual.

Closer to the harbor the captain lets up on the throttle and we can relax again. Scanning the water I spy the dorsal fins of dolphins. Key Dolphins are smaller than the ones we usually see, about half the size. Some swim up to socialize, recognizing the boat by the vibration of its engines.

Two dophins arc up out of the water and dive back down. They're fastidious creatures, diving like this every day to impress the lady dolphins, and to exfoliate the goo that collects on their skin from feeding on the ocean floor. It's fun to watch, harder to capture with the camera.

Sunset is not quite the grand show I pictured but still pretty. Most of the clouds are right at the horizon and the sun quietly slips below them.

Now that we're moving at trolling speed it's pleasant out here on the water. Even though it wasn't all it was cracked up to be, I'm glad we did the tour. But I'd still like to get on a real sailboat sometime this trip.

Riding back to the campground in the dark is another adventure. There's traffic but it's moving slowly and we are all lit up with our flashing front and rear lights. After a mile or so we get on the bike path and the ride is less stressful. We just have to watch out for scooters, dogs and cyclists with no lights.

Near the end when we're back on the roads I have a close call when an SUV starts backing out from a convenience store lot right in front of me. My bad for not spotting that potential conflict. Fortunately one of the peoople in the car hears or sees something moving and the car stops two feet from me. I'll have flashbacks on that scene for awhile.

Back at the campsite the wind is crazy. We have to pin everything down lest it blow off into the water. Could make things interesting tomorrow when we start riding east.

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Rachael AndersonI’m glad you didn’t get hit!
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1 month ago

Janice BranhamTo Rachael AndersonMe too Rachel. I felt very lucky.
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1 month ago

Nancy GrahamPhew, close call there with that backing out car!! As with others, I am so glad you did not get hit.
I very much enjoy your writing and following along on your tour, but Key West can stay off my list — maybe because I am fortunate to have been there years ago with oh so few tourists! You have picked some great sites to visit and sounds like you made good choices about swimming and diving ;’).
Stay safe.
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1 month ago

Janice BranhamTo Nancy GrahamThank you Nancy. I appreciate the encouragement.
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1 month ago

Gregory GarceauHemingway had many flaws, but that guy could write stories. I can't believe your companions passed up the opportunity to visit his Key West haunts. A few years ago, I felt blessed to tour in one of his other favorite locales--Ketchum, Idaho--where I got to visit his grave.
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1 month ago

Janice BranhamTo Gregory GarceauI didn't sell it enough. I've read For Whom the Bell Tolls twice and would happily read it again. Can't say that about any other writer.
A couple years ago we rode by the apartment where he and Hadley Richardson/Wife #1 lived in Paris at 74 Rue du Cardinal Lemoine. I wondered if there was a place to see in Ketchum, now I know.
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1 month ago