May 6, 2024 to May 9, 2024
Getting There
Limoux to Bari via Barcelona and the Barcelona-Rome Ferry
Since this is a journal of a bicycle trip, I’ll cover getting to the start in a single entry.
Monday May 6th
Today’s job was to get to Barcelona. We had spent the weekend packing, so the day was relatively chill. Everything into the car, shut down the house, and the usual mild last-minute panic. We were away shortly after lunch.
We chose to stay at the BAH (Barcelona Airport Hotel) due to its safe underground parking and due to the fact that we’re super-familiar with it. I think we’ve stayed in that hotel more often than any other hotel in the world! It’s a familiar stop on our travels around Europe or back to the US.
We had a bit of traffic but got into the hotel by 1800. Dinner and to bed. Tomorrow was going to be a busy day.
Tuesday May 7
The first task today was to get to the US Consulate to get a notary signature for some stupid US financial stuff we’re working on. We had an 1100 appointment, so we couldn’t waste time. We ate breakfast in the hotel (which was very nice) and walked a couple of blocks to the Mas Blau metro stop. From there, we took the metro and then walked up to the consulate, arriving about 20 minutes early.
What a depressing place! It felt like being processed into prison. After being relieved of our cell phones and watches, we were ushered through 5 or 6 bomb-proof doors to a claustrophobic little room with some bulletproof windows. Behind the windows were the consulate staff. Sometimes it sucks to be an American. But we got the work done with the officious and unpleasant notary and mercifully returned to real life on the beautiful Barcelona streets.
We had until about 2000 to check in with the ferry company, so the rest of the day was spent wandering around Barcelona. We stopped at Granja Dulcinea for some awesome hot chocolates with the obligatory churros for dipping.
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Then we spent some time wandering through two beautiful churches - the Basilica of Santa Maria del Pi and the Cathedral de Barcelona. Two magnificent buildings!
We then struck out for Sagrada Familia. We hadn’t bought tickets because we’ve been there before, but we love the neighborhoods around it. We had a good long walk, with a lunch break and lots of cool stuff to look at as we progressed. Barcelona is a great city for walking.
Soon enough we were among the throngs of tourists aimlessly walking around the building.
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2 weeks ago
Gaudi’s architecture is certainly unique and interesting, but what amazes me about this building is the tenacity of the local diocese that has been working on the construction for what, 100 years? Notre Dame de Paris took about 200 years to build. It looks to me like they might finish Sagrada Familia in another 20 years. It would be cool to still be alive on the day it’s done. Something to aim for.
We wasted time prowling the neighborhood and enjoying an afternoon drink. It’s a really nice area.
We then headed back to the BAH on the metro. Barcelona’s public transport is amazing! Clean, efficient, cheap, and safe. Just amazing!
We had a quick dinner in the hotel sports bar (better than the restaurant) and sprung the car from the garage. We were at the Grimaldi terminal about 2000, checked in, and were waiting patiently in line by 2015. Boarding started around 2030 for the scheduled 2030 departure. Traveling on this ferry requires flexibility and a sense of humor!
Wednesday May 8
Finally on the ferry, our larger room worked well. The cabin seemed huge and it was very quiet.
People-wise, it was a much quieter night than our previous disaster. No screaming high school kids. The ferry actually seemed pretty empty.
Unfortunately the weather decided to be the problem this time. From about 0300 to 0500 we passed through some really rough water The ferry was shuddering and rolling more than seemed possible for such a large vessel. But just when I was losing hope of sleeping, we sailed out of the storm into calmer seas. We got some sleep after all.
This being the Tuesday ferry, there was no stop in Sardinia to slow everything down. So we sailed smoothly on glassy waters right to Civitavecchia, arriving about 30 minutes behind schedule. Now if they could do something about the food…
As usual, we got kicked out of our cabin 3 hours before arrival. (They make up the cabins for the return trip during this time) We found a comfy corner of a lounge and waited for the announcement to troupe downstairs to the vehicles. As usual, it was a messy process. We popped out on amidst a huge group of semi trucks and had to wind our way around the vehicle deck until we found our car where we left it, wedged between two vans. Then we waited for about an hour before moving.
We didn’t get pulled over for inspection by the Italian customs officials this time, and were at the Hotel Traiano in Civitavecchia by 2130. They let us park the car in their microscopic parking lot, so the bike inside was safe. Sweet!
Thursday May 9
After a blissfully calm night and a good sleep, we had a plentiful breakfast at the hotel and hit the road about 0945. We had some navigational challenges due to road closures but made pretty good time. We worked our way around Rome, then headed south toward Naples but cut diagonally east to avoid the built-up parts of Naples. We stopped to refill the gas tank and eat a wonderful turmeric focaccia at the gas station cafe, and were cruising into Bari around 1645.
We navigated pretty cleanly to the parking garage - only a few moments of panic. We had pre-reserved and paid via Parclick, an online service that allows you to book long-term parking in advance. So we found the parking attendant and exchanged the ticket we took at entry for another ticket that gives us unlimited access for 14 days. This is the standard drill we go through every time we pre-book parking with Parclick.
We unloaded the car, put the bike together, and walked the 1.5 blocks up to «The Nest of Envy», a cute apartment that we picked for its proximity to the parking garage. The friendly host Michele met us there and showed us the ropes. By 1730 we were comfortably spreading out and sorting baggage for our morning departure.
We went out for an undistinguished pizza a few streets away from our room, and then decided to go for a walk. Our host had told us that there was a big festival going on, and sure enough, the streets were teeming with people. It was the festival of St. Nicholas, the biggest party that Bari throws for itself each year, twice a year.
We walked along with the crowds, not really knowing where we were going. Then we decided to strike out for the old town. We wandered down the twisty streets among crowds of local people, enjoying the atmosphere and making notes of places to try to eat when we get back here at the end of the tour. We found some incredible gelato at « Antica Gelateria Gentile » which saved the evening from being a culinary failure.
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3 weeks ago
Back in the newer part of town, the crowds were getting thicker than ever. We stumbled onto a light display built around the statue of a saint - Saint Nicholas, no doubt.
We could see larger crowds leading down a very long street to a bunch more bright lights, but it seemed too far away for our tired feet. We headed back to our room, amazed at how much life this city showed us this evening.
Tomorrow, we get to go on a bike ride!!
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I do feel the need to ask one question after reading this post. You described your experience at the US Consulate as feeling "like being processed into prison". So, you know what that feels like? Just asking...
3 weeks ago
3 weeks ago
3 weeks ago