Our apologies, we are so behind in completing this journal. We are now at home and are determined to get it done a quickly as possible. We are both fine but sometimes unexpected complications get in the way. So, here goes!
We are staying on the outskirts of Gouda in a B & B situated on the water. We are enjoying seeing the lifestyle people enjoy here…fishing from their deck, barbq’s, swimming…it feels like a good life.
The rating for our B&B is high but we were frustrated by the inflexibility of our hosts. Well before the checkout time of 10:30 they were in our space, cleaning etc. The facilities were good and spacious…but we prefer genuine hospitality over amenities.
Barry is looking like a fan of Holland…wearing wooden shoes and his t-shirt from the Dutch brewery Hertog Jan, as well as embracing some Dutch Gouda cheese.
De Goudse Waag, a beautiful building in the Central Market Square, was designed by Pieter Post in 1668. It is now a Cheese and Crafts Museum for Gouda.
De Goudse Waag is an historic building from 1668. There is a Cheese and Crafts Museum upstairs. Historically, Gouda is an important transit point from Amsterdam to Rotterdam and it is where all goods over 10 lbs were weighed and duties imposed. The Gouda cheese Market started in 1198. For centuries farmers came together on market day to sell their cheese. This tradition continues today with farmers bringing their cheese every Thursday for the market.
This resident of Gouda, originally from Ireland, was very interesting and gave us some good tips about this area. He highly recommended that we also spend time in Utrecht.
The dimensions of these row homes are very narrow. Typically the Dutch like to build up, rather than wide in these older buildings. When in Holland be prepared for extremely steep stairs, especially in older buildings.
We hadn’t planned to tour the church, but on the advice of locals we went. Sint-Janskerk is a large gothic church known for its stained glass for which it has been placed on the list of 100 top monuments in Holland. It is dedicated to John the Baptist, the patron saint of Gouda. The church dates back to the 15th century.
Sint-Jan is the longest church in the Netherlands. The stained glass windows were made and installed by the brothers Dirk and Wouter Crabeth from 1555 to 1571. The church operates as a church on Sunday and a museum the other days. There is an excellent audio guide. Essentially the stained glass windows offer a history of Gouda and Holland. Unique, excellent and highly recommended.
Nowhere else in the world is there a church where so much of the original 16th century stained glass has been preserved. There are 72 world renowned windows in place. Visually it is a beautiful sight, but the audio guide was very insightful. Each window tells a story.
Sint-Jan was originally a Catholic Church. But in 1572, the city of Gouda decided to side with the Protestant faction in the 80 years war. As a result, the stained glass windows are from Catholic and Protestant donors…an unusual situation,
In 1939, anticipating a German invasion, all of the stained glass windows were boxed up in crates like this. What an endeavour.
It is remarkable that this church has weathered the challenges of history and time. It is a massive edifice and commands the view in the centre of town..
Since Gouda we have been carrying these pastries from a bakery. We have been trying to make time as we spent more time than planned there. We’ll stop in this park…enjoy a thermos of coffee and pastries then power on.
This beautiful park is where we stopped for a break. It is located by a senior care home….we watched many residents out for a walk or with an aide enjoying the nature.
The fellow we talked to in Gouda recommended that we stop at this village Oudewater, renowned for its beauty and history. We will make the short detour to check it out?
Oudewater is one of the oldest villages in the Netherlands. It was established in 1265. The architecture is remarkable here and has in many cases, stood the test of time. Scales to weigh presumed witches were done in this building.
The 16th century was a time of witch hunts and Oudewater is where they came to be weighed to try to prove their innocence. Oudewater was considered to have the most accurate scales. It was presumed that witches were light as it was believed that they could fly. When diseases broke out, it was presumed that it was the work of witches….men and women. From the 15th to 18th century, 1200 women were burned at the stake in the Netherlands. Throughout Europe, 50,000 are estimated to have been killed
This sobering list is of those who were found guilty and killed by burning at the stake or drowning . Oudewater was not the site of these deaths, rather their role was to weigh the accused as other villages were known to tamper with the scales.
We have arrived at our Vrienden op de Fiets where we will stay for 2 nights. Tomorrow, heavy rain is predicted. Luckily we are in a wonderful place…our own building with a bedroom, kitchen, lounge etc. Our host saw Barry’s t-shirt and gave him beer for our stay.