Exploring Nancy, the capital of the Lorraine district
We have spent two days in Nancy at the Adagio Aparthotel. Yesterday the weather was rainy so it was a good decision to stay. We have really enjoyed exploring the French cities that we have visited so far, like Thionville and Metz, but Nancy is on another level. We spent much of the day meandering through the city of Nancy, taking in the historic sights and appreciating what it offers. Wow, talk about a city with bling… “baroque gone balmy”.
Nancy is known for its late baroque and art nouveau landmarks, dating to its days as the former capital as the Duchy of Lorraine
The Adagio Aparthotel is a good find for us. Offering a spacious suite with a kitchenette, laundry facilities, a designated locked area inside for bikes and an affordable price tick all our boxes. We will certainly stay in one of these again
A must see place to see in Nancy is the 18th century Place Stanislas, built between 1752 and 1756. This grand square, decorated with gilded wrought iron gates and rococo fountains is a huge open area with cafes, historic buildings and a park in or by the square. It is truly a beloved place filled with locals and visitors who gather here to have coffee, visit and just enjoy the space.
In the square is a statue of Stanislas, Duke of Lorraine in 1831. He built the city of Nancy, the capital of Lorraine, and he decided to connect the old and new towns of Nancy which had been separated by marshland. He built this Royal Sauare in honour ofhis son-law Louis XV. It was renamed Place Stanislas in 1831 when the city erected a statue in his honour.
Wandering these narrow streets which lead away from the square in many directions is a wonderful way to discover the treats of the city. Pattiseries, restaurants, bakeries, shops of every description, churches and museums…it was fascinating and charming..
Jacques Callot, a resident of Nancy from the 16th century, was a baroque printmaker and draft master. He did more than 1400 etchings that chronicled the life of this period in Nancy.
This fountain honours the life of Rene II of the 15th century who was a Duke of Lorraine. He was most famous for defeating and killing Charles the Bold of Burgundy at the battle of Nancy in 1477, thus ending the Burgundian Wars.
The Church of the Cordeliers is named after the Franciscan Order. It was built in the 15th century by order of Duke Rene II following the Battle of Nancy. It is part of the Lorraine Museum.
Philippe, The Duchess of Lorraine’s tomb effigy is an iconic sculptural piece from the 16th century. She is depicted in her Clarissa Habit having become a Nun when her husband Rene II died. She was given a modest burial at the Convent, but her descendants commissioned the sculptor Ligier Richie’s to create her monument.
The Cordeliers Church was damaged during the French Revolution. The Royal Tombatones were desecrated and it wasn’t until 1826 that the Lorraine Royal Families remains were returned to the crypt. We spent much time here…so much to take in and understand. It is part of the Museum of Lorraine but was free to enter.
This wonderful bookstore featuring collectibles and old books was a treasure trove.
Charcuteries….the quality of the meat and cheeses here is incredible. French people love good food and like to support these small businesses for the quality.
Somehow, dogs sense that Barry is their fan and a soft touch. We were sitting having our coffee and sharing the sweet buns. This dog would not take his eyes off Barry, yearning for a taste.
The bakery where we had coffee had a line up outside the door with customers buying bread at the end of their workday. Note the bags of baguettes etc. which had been preordered.
France is very serious about keeping her citizens safe and take strong measures in having a strongly armed police force on foot patrol in the cities. Initially we were taken aback by this sight, but in reading about the struggles, we understand why we are seeing them.
This fountain is built on the site of the Duke of Lorraine’s former kitchen garden. The unusual fountain has three bearded old men representing three rivers.
The Opera House of Nancy is in Stanislas Square. We feel like kids looking in the window of a candy shop…what we would give to get inside one of these grand opera houses of Europe. One day we will time it right and see a performance or take a tour.
