Fumel to Cahors

October 22, 2010

WEATHER: SUNNY AND WARM

We left Fumel on a nice long downhill route through a small village where we found a tiny road right along the river (with swans). We rode under the main highway bridge through agricultural areas: a mix of grapes, plowed fields and corn stalks. Then we reached Touzac and started climbing uphill through vineyards towards Vire-sur-Lot. Then flat roads to a bridge over the Lot with a scenic view of Puy-L'Eveque. We took photos and decided the village is probably more scenic from a distance, so we didn't go into the center. We had thought we might stop at Prayssac for lunch, but it was a bit too early, there was a crowded market, and we didn't see an interesting menu du jour. Instead, we headed along a busy road for a few km with a wide enough shoulder that it wasn't too bad, and arrived at Castelfranc after 26 km. The Restaurant du Pont was right at the bridge and we put our bikes in the courtyard and went inside for lunch. (They weren't serving outside.) The 12 euro lunch was a bit strange: a tureen of soup with bread slices, then a marinated vegetable salad, then a big glob of brandade morue which turned out to be salt cod pounded with mashed potatoes, and custard for dessert. Not the best meal we'd had, but we were hungry and it was filling.

The picturesque village of Puy-L'Eveque from the bridge over the Lot.

Vineyards on the south side of the Lot between Fumel and Cahors with the leaves beginning to show fall colours.

After lunch we went across the (funky) bridge at Castelfranc, through vineyards to the village of Alba, where the main road was blocked off for construction, and we had to go down, down to the river and push our bikes up the very steep road for the déviation. Then through more vineyards and fields to Luzech, where the river did a U-turn around both sides of the village, so we had to cross two bridges to go through it. The last few kilometres to Cahors were on a very busy road (because Eva didn't want to go downhill and up again on the less busy one). Finally onto a smaller road and then suddenly the Pont Valentre appeared-a dramatic entry into Cahors. The cobbled pedestrian bridge was built in 1200 with three towers and is quite spectacular. There was still afternoon sun on the bridge and we spent some time taking photos and enjoying more views of the river Lot.

Our entrance into Cahors went across the Pont Valentre.

From the bridge, it was a short ride past the train station to our hotel, the Terminus, where we received a warm welcome and parked our bikes in the garage in front of many cases of wine.

The hotel room was large with a beautiful tiled bathroom complete with bidet, and we were glad to be staying for two nights after four straight days of cycling.

The hotel has a highly touted restaurant, but it was way too expensive for us, so after a bath and shower, we set out to explore the town and look for a place for dinner. I had written down two recommended restaurants, one of which was very small and only had one menu each evening. Unfortunately tonight the menu consisted of calf's brain with brandade morue. We'd already eaten brandade morue for lunch, and once was enough, thank you. The calf's brain didn't tempt us. The second restaurant, La Lamparo, looked small on the ground level but had a huge dining room upstairs in the back. We had quite a good dinner there. The entree was scallops and other shellfish in a cream sauce; the plat was sliced duck with green beans; desserts were excellent--Al had tarte tatin and Eva had profiteroles with a super chocolate sauce.

Today's ride: 53 km (33 miles)
Total: 364 km (226 miles)

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