September 22, 2020
To Mošćenička Draga
Last night
After much anguish, reconsideration and gnashing of teeth, Team Anderson decides to change its plans. Our plan for tomorrow was to bicycle to Cres, but we’re fearful of the threatened rain and thunderstorms. It looks like we’re due to get wet, possibly completely soaked, and the idea of a twenty mile ride along the exposed, mountainous spine of Cres Island in a thunderstorm sounded like more than we care to take on. In our experience, thunderstorms in the Balkans are no joke. The fireworks and deluge from our night in Dubrovnik two years ago is still vivid in our minds.
So, we look at the map to look for an easier destination that keeps our options open. Looking at the map, we stumble across Mošćenička Draga, a seaside town a few miles this side of Opatija. A much shorter and easier ride, and a destination that gives us options: it’s not far past the Cres ferry, so we can bike from there to Cres if conditions improve in a few days; or we can bike forward to Rijeka if they don’t, and maybe bike across the bridge to Krk or catch a bus or taxi somewhere if it still looks miserable out.
We don’t know thing one about Mošćenička Draga (even though we biked through it on the way to Labin last week), other than that the location is right and it has lodging and restaurants. Expecting to get wet in the morning, we carefully pack for rain and then call it a night. We’ll wake up early in the morning, scope out the weather, and pick the best window we see - even if it means foregoing the nice included breakfast at our hotel.
Today’s ride
We’re elated when we wake up this morning and see that the foul weather has pushed out. It looks like there’s a trough of dry skies running north up the coast that’s predicted to last until about noon. It looks wet to the south and inland, and wet over Cres; but going our way, straight north, it looks better than we have any right to expect.
With only a fairly easy 20 miles ahead of us, we have time for breakfast. We’re down to the restaurant when it opens at seven; and an omelet, a croissant, coffee, a variety of meats, cheeses and fruits later, we’re back in the room packing up to go. I consider patching the flat, but we decide against it in the interests of getting up the coast faster. If we flatten, we flatten. It’s not going to rain anyway, the Weather Channel has promised.
We’re out the door by 8:30, heading north under calm, dry skies with a bit of a tailwind. Ideal conditions, considering.
Heart | 1 | Comment | 0 | Link |
We were sorry to have changed our plans, but for today at least it all works out like a dream. Definitely Type I Fun. The ride is short but fantastic, one of the best of the tour. I can honestly say that I’m glad we were pushed into this decision because the ride is so enjoyable. We rode and enjoyed this stretch just last week but going north, with the water on the right, and the road dropping sharply just a few feet from your pedals it is really amazing. This is a bit of coastline I could happily ride again and again, but it’s an especially delicious experience when we had been expecting to get wet. It doesn’t hurt our appreciation either to look off to the right and see the storm clouds over Cres.
Heart | 1 | Comment | 0 | Link |
Heart | 1 | Comment | 0 | Link |
Heart | 2 | Comment | 0 | Link |
Heart | 1 | Comment | 0 | Link |
Heart | 1 | Comment | 0 | Link |
Heart | 1 | Comment | 0 | Link |
Heart | 1 | Comment | 0 | Link |
Heart | 3 | Comment | 0 | Link |
Heart | 5 | Comment | 0 | Link |
Heart | 1 | Comment | 0 | Link |
Video sound track: Mambo Sonambulero, by Ry Cooder and Manuel Galban
And, we’re happy with this turn of events because Mošćenička Draga proves to be such a delightful little fishing village once we arrive. Beautiful, full of character, quiet, perfect. And our apartment for the next two nights is perfect too. We’re tucked up inside a tight warren of interconnected structures just above the fish market, just yards from the waterfront. We access our unit through a twisted set of concrete stairs to the south, or another one to the east, or yet a third one to the west. It takes a bit to orient ourselves, but once we do it’s a fun place to walk home to. The unit itself is brilliant - modern, large, airy, fully equipped, another place we could really live in for an extended stay.
And, the host is amazing too. She greets us at the post office, shows us our quarters, and then walks us to her garage a few hundred yards away where we can leave our bikes. Oh, and by the way: there are two beers in the refrigerator, and a plate of excellent apple cake on the counter.
We have mixed feelings about all of this. It would be great if the weather improves and we can continue on to Cres in two days. If they don’t though, there could be much worse places to sit it out for longer. There are several attractive restaurants on the waterfront, and several interesting hiking paths to explore during breaks in the weather. A week here would be just fine, really.
Heart | 5 | Comment | 3 | Link |
This reminds me of Port Wenn in the BBC Doc Martin series.
Did you ever see it?
4 years ago
And no, I never saw or even heard of that series. Should we look into it?
4 years ago
Heart | 1 | Comment | 0 | Link |
Heart | 1 | Comment | 0 | Link |
Heart | 1 | Comment | 0 | Link |
Heart | 1 | Comment | 0 | Link |
Heart | 1 | Comment | 2 | Link |
They might see this and try to create a new Legless Seagull Drumsticks product.
4 years ago
4 years ago
Heart | 1 | Comment | 0 | Link |
Heart | 4 | Comment | 0 | Link |
Heart | 1 | Comment | 0 | Link |
Heart | 1 | Comment | 0 | Link |
Heart | 1 | Comment | 0 | Link |
Ride stats today: 21 miles, 900’; for the tour: 1,193 miles, 53,000’
Today's ride: 21 miles (34 km)
Total: 1,197 miles (1,926 km)
Rate this entry's writing | Heart | 10 |
Comment on this entry | Comment | 2 |
4 years ago
4 years ago