The Comacchio valleys

October 20, 2020

At breakfast this morning we spoke briefly with two German women staying at our hotel. They’re down here for an entire week, taking in a range of activities. Boating, hikes, today they’re renting bicycles. It sounds like a fine way to pass a week. We’re staying here two nights, but longer would be even better.

It’s cold again this morning, so we don’t start biking until nearly eleven. Before then, Rachael takes off for the store and I wander around town a bit more with the camera.

In Comacchio. The town’s economy historically was based on eel fishing. Displays of equipment used in traditional eel fishing are placed throughout the town. The large vessels are bolaghe, immersive pots for storing live eels after they’ve been captured. These are perforated ceramic, but traditionally they were wicker baskets.

In Comacchio. This definitely looks Venetian, and is presumably a spot to moor the town’s equivalent of a gondola.

Finally, we’re off. Our ride begins by skirting the margin of the nearest lagoon, biking on a dirt path along the top of the dike. We continue on this track for about four miles, but you could just keep going for much longer - trails continue on south, or east back to the sea. From the short distance we covered this morning, I imagine it would be fantastic the whole way.

Looking back across the lagoon toward Comacchio.

I was stopped on the narrow trail atop the dike taking a photo when this crowd sped up from behind, split and biked past on either side. I stood very still.

Another view across the valley to Comacchio. I was puzzled when I first heard of the valleys of Comacchio, since this is a completely flat region. The lagoons are called valleys though.

The view across the lagoon to Comacchio.

At the time I didn’t know what this was, but I think it’s a lavoriero, a trap to catch migrating eels.

Limonium is common here along the margins of the canals. An information board lists four limonium species that are native here, all protected.

The valleys of Cormacchio. This is another area that would be well worth a longer stay. There are miles of cycling and walking paths that line the lagoons.

The Comacchio lagoons are an important birding area. I’m gradually figuring this out, but this entire region of the Po Delta is now a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, recognized as one of the most important wetland regions in Europe.

OK, Bill - back to you again. Just don’t be telling us this is a common gull - OK? Look at the way that bright red foot is clenched around the rail!

Blueberries? If so, they’ve gone wild here, growing as large, almost treelike shrubs.

Most of the day’s ride was a ragged loop that broke away from the lagoons into the salt farmlands to the west. It’s all ultra-flat - in the entire loop today we accumulated less than 300 feet of climbing. Roads are a mix - some are a pure delight, on paved but slightly distressed single lane roads that are little more than tracks; and others are just a minor, shoulderless highway that carries so little traffic that the lack of a shoulder is never a concern.

Toward the end of the ride, we enjoy an especially quiet few miles that unexpectedly end in a barricaded bridge across a canal, it’s plank surface rotted through in spots. Both ends of the bridge are blocked by large concrete drums, with no space to wedge between or around them. Go over, or go back.

We went over or course, but slowly and laboriously. To our amusement, we discovered later that Rachael accidentally left her GoPro on during the whole time; so we can share this link with you for your viewing amusement.

Leaving the lagoons, we execute a large loop inland, generally following the canals. Our roads today are a mixed lot - some are minor highways, others are awesome cycling roads like this.

It’s always a surprise to see how beautiful such a plane land can be.

There was a light haze or fog over the lagoon that never fully burned off all day. Just enough to give the day an aura of mystery.

We went for miles on some of these roads without seeing a car.

Nice to see one of these guys still walking around for a change.

So this would explain why we haven’t seen a car for awhile on this road.

Bike Fridays go anywhere, with a little effort and enterprise.

Today’s video (linked here Until we can upload it to Vimeo).

Video sound track: Shades of Grey, by Al Marconi

At our restaurant tonight, I was feeling adventurous and decided to try the grilled eel. I’ve never eaten eel before that I can recall, and if not now, when?

Leaving the restaurant, I glanced at its wall covered with black and white photographs. I was sorry I hadn’t looked when we first arrived to an empty restaurant, because now it’s nearly full and I don’t want to intrude on the space of the diners seated nearby. I just got a sideways glance, but enough to be startled by the fact that every one of them was a photograph of Sophia Loren. Researching this later, I see that she got her start here, in Comacchio: her first major role was as the lead in La Donna del Fiume (The River Girl), shot in Comacchio and other spots in the Po Delta region. We’ll have to view it some winter night when we’re back home.

Fighting the crowds on our way to dinner.

Grilled eel with polenta. Much better than I expected, and something I’d order again.

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Ride stats today: 42 miles, 300’; for the tour: 1677 miles, 77,000’

Today's ride: 42 miles (68 km)
Total: 1,706 miles (2,746 km)

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Bob DistelbergNice how Rachael's bike with the GoPro was perfectly positioned to record the transfer of the other bike over the barriers on both ends.
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4 years ago

Jen RahnA video of Team Anderson problem solving!

Love it. Especially Rachael's immediate declaration of "We can get around this!"
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4 years ago

Stewart BradyI think the bird is a black headed gull in winter plumage and the blueberries look like sloes.
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4 years ago

Scott AndersonTo Stewart BradyYes! Another vote for the black headed gull. I knew it all along. Really a sharp looking bird.
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4 years ago

Scott AndersonTo Jen RahnThat was my comment when Rachael first showed it to me. I was impressed at what an effective team it made us look like. Caught us at a good moment.
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4 years ago

Scott AndersonTo Bob DistelbergYes, a lucky accident. It’s one we’ll enjoy reliving years from now.
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4 years ago