Rachael and I have been astonished by our reaction to Split, a city we have avoided and in fact almost didn’t stay in at all. Under our original plan for the tour, we planned to pass through Split just long enough to arrange transportation back to Zagreb.
How wrong we were in this. Split is a wonderful city, beautiful and full of atmosphere. It is especially fine this fall when it is both so quiet and inexpensive, but I imagine it would be great in the spring or fall in a normal year, away from the hot and hectic months of the high season. It’s easy to imagine us making our way back here again some year, using it as a springboard into or out of Europe and as a way to extend a tour beyond the 90 day limit of stays in the Schengen zone.
The view from outside of our hotel is atmospheric regardless of the conditions out. It looked different and stirring every time we stepped out the door or returned to our room.
Just around the corner from our hotel, through the Silver Gate and outside the walls, is the Pazar green market. It’s open daily and starts setting up before 7. We passed through it on our way to morning coffee while wares and sellers were just arriving and setting up their stands. Neighboring coffee shops open at six, primarily to serve the sellers.
The Cathedral of Saint Domnius. The octagonal building is the palace mausoleum, from the era of the Roman emperor. The bell tower’s origins date from the XIII century, but renovations are much more modern.
The Peristil, the central meeting area of the palace, and since the VII century the cathedral square. The entrance to the cathedral is on the left, and at the far end is the city’s famous Egyptian sphinx.
This black granite Egyptian sphinx has perched on the edge of the Peristil and the cathedral for 1,700 years, when it was brought here by Diocletian. It is much older though - 3,000 years old, from the time of Pharoah Thutmose III.
A headless Egyptian sphinx, a companion to the one shown above, lies outside the baptistery. It was defaced by early Christians, who considered it a pagan icon. These two are the only survivors of the dozen sphinxes Diocletian brought to the palace.
The Vestibule, an original part of the palace at the entryway to the Peristil. Originally a domed structure, it was built as a meeting hall for distinguished visitors.
Along the waterfront in front of the palace is the Riva, the most important public space in the city. It dates in its present form back to the French occupation in the era of Napoleon.
Lyle McLeodLooks like a very successful 'round 1' in Croatia. Hopefully 'round 2' in Italy works out just as well! The islands and whole Adriatic coast looks beautiful .... we are leaning towards a Eurovelo 8(ish) ride for next year ... your posts from this trip are tipping the odds towards EV 8. Reply to this comment 4 years ago
Scott AndersonTo Lyle McLeodIt was really a great experience. If you come, I’d really encourage you to do it as far off season as you can. Tourism in the islands really starts dropping off by early October. Reply to this comment 4 years ago