Pag town is fairly new, and unusual as far as historical Mediterranean towns go. Its streets are ruler straight, not twisted and knotted like so many medieval towns are. Pag town has a long history, dating back to the Liburnians and then the Romans; but not this Pag town. The older town, about two miles south and near the salt pans, is a ruin with few remaining traces. It came under repeated attack over the centuries by the rival salt producers Rab and Zadar.
The new town was established by the Venetians in the 1400’s, designed by master builder Juraj Dalmatinac using a rectilinear model that was apparently in vogue at the time. So the Venetians gave, and they took away. They left behind this simple but attractive little town but took away all of the trees, leaving the island so barren that few people can live here now. Also, they allegedly kept the Pagians (or whatever you call these folk) weak and easily suppressed by taking most of their salt too.
Anyway, here’s the town.
Pag town, seen from the south. The center of town is on the right bank, adjacent to the arched bridge.
Most of the streets in the old town look like this, only narrower. This is the main central street, ending ahead at the arched bridge. The barrels on the right are of Konica Bile, the tavern which lets the room we’re staying in.
Here’s the staircase to our room. Our bikes are in a store room one flight down. It was interesting getting them up this corkscrew, and was one argument for just taking a walk instead of a day ride. It will be enough getting them down the day we leave.
An interesting wreck. The other side is even more so with the side stripped off and all its ribs exposed, making it resemble the skeleton of a beached whale. The light was too poor from that direction though, so you’re left with this aspect.
Most of the streets look like this. Oh, one thing I forgot to say in Pag’s favor - the streets in the historic center are too narrow for cars, so it’s quiet in the way that Cres is.
Juraj Dalmatinac, master builder and the designer of Pag town, seen here strangely driving a chisel into his thigh. Also of the incredible cathedral in Šibenik, which we’ll hopefully be seeing in a few days.
I failed to keep notes here so I don’t know what this tower is attached to, but I think it’s the unfinished Bishop’s Palace (Pag never got its bishop).
Now this was finished though. This lovely building is Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, intended at the time to be a cathedral if the Church had ever granted Pag its bishop. It was built by the master builders from Šibenik, including Juraj Dalmatinac.
