October 16, 2020
A walk on Pesaro Beach
Oh, fine. Another town I’d never really heard of before that looks like it would be a brilliant place to live. If we ever decide to pull up stakes and move to Europe (which should be pretty easy since we have so few stakes in the ground now anyway), we’ve got some decisions to make. Split? Malaga? Lagos? Ceret? Pesaro? Today at least, myopic folks that we are, Pesaro would probably get the nod. On the way back to our room yesterday we stopped to stare at the listings in the real estate window.
Pesaro, a small city with a population of about 90,000, is known for several distinctive features. First, it’s a city of culture. It’s the birthplace of Rossini, and it stages a Rossini opera festival that goes back 40 years. My sister Elizabeth would love this.
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It is probably better known for its beach though - a nearly ruler straight seven mile long sandy beach perfect for long, lazy strolls beside the sea. It’s very quiet now, but based on the number of hotels and bathhouses lining the waterfront I’m sure it is very crowded here in the summer.
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And, it’s noteworthy for the giant sphere sculpture in a reflecting pool in a lovely park by the waterfront. Perhaps not sufficient reason to move here, but nice.
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All of this is very nice, but what really sold us on the town is the bicycles. People bicycle everywhere, in great numbers and for all purposes, rain or shine. It’s clearly an integral part of urban life here. And they’re proud enough of it to declare Pesaro the City of the Bicycle.
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We arrived in Pesaro yesterday in the rain, cycling the last eight miles from Fano on a beautiful, smooth, flat bike path the whole way. It runs right along the sea, next to the rail line. It’s even labeled: Line 2 of the Bicipolitana.
I couldn’t find any articles on the Pesaro Bicipolitana in English, but you could look one up and translate it if you’re not fluent in Italian. The network began about fifteen years ago and now extends to 80 kilometers and is still growing. The orange line runs through the middle of the city, the green line runs inland along the Foglia River. Pesaro claims to have one of the highest bicycle penetration rates of any city in Europe.
Also, the old city is quite attractive with its fair share of palaces, churches and fortifications to draw your attention. Right now the main streets have a festive look, with colorful painted lanterns strung across them. I haven’t seen anything about this, so I don’t know if they’re a permanent feature or are just out now for some special reason. I could ask someone I guess, but for now we’re just content to enjoy them.
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The rains passed last night, and it’s cool but quite nice this morning. There’s a chance of showers in the afternoon, but after that we’re looking at a week of sunshine if forecasts are to be believed. We could go for a bike ride, but we decide to check out the famous beach instead.
We go our own way for the next three hours, but go in the same direction - southeast, back toward Fano. Rachael sticks to the Bicipolitana the whole way, which also includes a walking lane. I have it both ways though, walking south on the sand for about three miles and then doubling back along the paved lane. A beautiful morning.
We meet back up in town by the Great Tomato, settle into a waterfront restaurant for a fine lunch of Nicoise salad and spaghetti with tuna, and then retire to B&B Rossini for a relaxed afternoon. In the evening we step out again, weaving through the bikes on our way to a nearby pizzeria. Very therapeutic.
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p.s. We do speak French. There has to be something cheap in those crumbly white villages in France? For example, we noticed Beaugency, on the Loire between Orleans and Tours - pictured on Day 75 of Grampies Ride Again! But hey, Pesaro could be fine too!
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And Ron might disagree on our affinity for sleeping in a tent ...
I'd prefer a comfy bed out of the elements. Maybe a wall bed or an inflatable mattress?
My Rusty Spanish might help with communication in Italy or Spain(??)
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