June 29, 2023
Day 6: Frostburg, MD to Ohiopyle, PA
In which I cross the Eastern Continental Divide
When I got up, I found I could barely see across the street, and immediately became concerned that the Canadian wildfire smoke had moved in overnight. I checked my weather app and was told this was fog. Phew!
Jason at the Allegheny Trail House B&B makes amazing breakfasts! I had banana pancakes with vegan sausage, and it was all delicious!
I met someone outside the 7-11 before leaving town who introduced himself as Bernie Hansen - said he was on the national cycling team at one point and did the Race Across America Marathon (RAAM). I thought he was yanking my chain, but he had lots of details to share, and when I looked him up later - he was on the list! Impressive cycling stuff but he says he no longer cycles, and got into a newish Mustang GT.
I rolled back down the hill to the trail, and started up the same 1-2% grade as yesterday, knowing it would only last 9 miles or so. I could see smoke in the air between the hills, but still couldn’t smell it or tell if it was bothering my lungs.
I think this sign means I just crossed into Pennsylvania from Maryland. We'll see...
This tunnel was quite long - maybe .25 or .3 miles. It was so dark inside I had to turn lights on in case someone (with no lights) was coming the other way. It was cold in there, too!
I got to the Eastern Continental Divide before 11am. All the water east of the divide flows directly into the Atlantic Ocean. All the water west (until you get to the Western Divide in the Rockies) flows down into the Gulf of Mexico (mostly via the Mississippi). This meant the rest of my day would be that mild downhill grade that I’d been climbing for a while.
I will say the GAP is more civilized than the C&O. The C&O has port-a-potties every few miles (which is thoughtful). I used one, and realized it was full of spiders, so tried not to after that. The GAP has real restrooms, sometimes with a bike repair-stand & pump nearby. Very helpful, especially when you “gotta go” and you’re out on the trail or have a flat tire.
The smoke didn’t seem to dissipate much until the end of the day, when it looked thinner. I took several pictures of the Youghiogheny River that the trail was following. There were several high bridges that crossed the river, providing beautiful views below. I’m sure these pictures would be more vibrant without the smokey air, but they were still picturesque.
I stopped in Rockwood for a bite - a lousy sub and a bottle of tea, but it was filling and kept me going.
I arrived in Ohiopyle about 4pm. This town seems entirely geared towards life on both the trail and the river. Lots of adventure companies who will take you kayaking, whitewater rafting, biking, hiking or something close to that. Most of Ohiopyle is behind those trees (it's that small). I stayed in back of the brick building on the left.
I’m going to look ahead at smoke in Pittsburgh tonight and see how tomorrow looks. It's a 77-mile run to Pittsburgh, and if the air quality is bad enough I may need to reconsider.
Today's ride: 57 miles (92 km)
Total: 291 miles (468 km)
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