September 10, 2004
Day 14: Day hike in Cascade Canyon
The temperature was 40F (4C) when I got up at 7:20 AM.. One of the warmest mornings of the trip. I ate breakfast, then took the unloaded bike for a short ride around the 8 mile "Jenny Lake loop" to see the Tetons in the early morning sun. The weather wasn't totally cooperative, though. Skies were mostly clear to my east but there were high silver clouds above and to the west of the Tetons. I didn't get the blue sky photos I was hoping for.
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The road takes me to my first view of Jenny Lake. The sky was somewhat overcast but it was still an impressive view because the Tetons rise very steeply from the opposite shore of the lake.
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Back at the campsite I dawdled for a while, hoping the weather would clear for a hike to Cascade Canyon. While waiting there the Japanese cyclist Masa showed up and set up camp. He had camped the previous night at Colter Bay and came here to do a day hike, same as me. I started hiking at 11 AM. It was a short hike to the boat dock but I decided to walk around the south shore of Jenny Lake rather than ride the ferry across the lake. The trail around the lake is 2 miles long, mostly flat, but with many rocks and roots that slow me down somewhat. On the southwest side of the lake the trail starts climbing along a very steeply cascading creek. The next stop is Hidden Falls which is quite nice. It was crowded with hikers, most of whom took the ferry and hiked only 1/2 mile to the falls.
From Hidden Falls the trail continues uphill, then climbs several small but steep switchbacks to Inspiration Point which is about 400 feet (120m) above Jenny Lake. This is the turnaround point for the majority of the hikers who now have a 1 mile downhill hike back to the ferry. Inspiration Point has neck-craning views of the Tetons and a great view of Jenny Lake down below.
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After savoring the view for a few minutes I continued hiking towards Cascade Canyon. Most of the distance to my turnaround point is gently uphill, climbing another 700 feet (212m) in 5 miles (8km). The scenery in Cascade Canyon is really spectacular. This has got to be one of the best day hikes in the whole USA. The mountains rise very steeply for several thousand feet on both sides. The highest and pointiest Teton peaks are to the south but I couldn't see them very well because I was looking into the sun. The view was better on my return hike later in the afternoon.
The mountains to the north are not as pointy or high but are much closer. Still they made the hikers look very tiny and insignificant in comparison.
Most of the time the trail is in open areas that give unobstructed views of the mountains all around. The trail also passes through two small forested areas. In the middle of the canyon is a small creek, Cascade Creek. It's hard to imagine this tiny creek carving the canyon by erosion.
I turned around at 3 PM at a trail junction after hiking 7 miles with a total net climb of 1100 feet with almost no descent. The hike back to camp will be easier and faster than the 4 hour hike into the canyon. Plus, I can ride the boat across the lake to shorten the return hike by 2 miles.
Elevation is 7900 feet (2360m) at the turnaround point. Fall colors were getting started in the sheltered canyon.
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I didn't mind backtracking because the scenery is so spectacular and it looks different in the late afternoon sun. The return hike was glorious with the sun behind me.
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I got to the Jenny Lake boat dock at 5:20 PM and waited 10 minutes for the boat. The ride across the lake took less than 10 minutes. I was back at the campground before 6 PM, even with an ice cream break at the store on the way. The boat ride cost $5 but it saved me 2 miles of hiking at a time when I was getting very tired. While on the boat I took a picture and got my first-ever "memory full" message on my digital camera. There were 405 images on the 512MB memory card. It was my first time to completely fill the memory card. Later in the evening I reviewed the recent pictures and deleted a few so I could take pictures tomorrow.
This morning I filled my water sack and put it on a picnic table in the campground. So I had warm water for a shower when I got back to the campsite. The afternoon was mostly sunny with a high of about 72F (22C). I'm glad the morning clouds didn't last very long. I was thankful that I was able to make time for this day hike. It's the best day hike I have done in several years.
Tonight there are two solo cyclists and a pair of backpackers in the hiker/biker area. My trip is almost over now, so I was reflecting on recent events and thankful for the warm and sunny weather. The temperature for the last few days has been above normal for this time of year.
Distance: 8.3 miles (13.3 km) unloaded
Climbing: 190 feet (58m)
Average speed: 9.6 mph (15.4 km/h)
Maximum speed: 21.0 mph (33.6 km/h)
Hiking: 12 miles (19.2km) with 1300 feet (394m) of climbing
Today's ride: 8 miles (13 km)
Total: 615 miles (990 km)
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