It's my birthday! And surprisingly, the weather's been better than it's been all week. Even a hint of sunshine. I took off in the morning to take pictures of Prince Rupert harbour. Then I stopped by the Safeway and bought myself a cinnamon coffee cake on the day-old table - - $2 Canadian - - Whoo-Hah! Went back to the hostel and shared it with the folks who were lazing about.

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Olive, the relief manager, has to be the nicest person in the accommodations business. There's no one more pleasant - even at the Chateau Lake Louise or the Prince of Wales. I switched rooms to the third floor, then went out to see the town. The word is that Prince Rupert has lost 1/3 of its population and the downtown shows it. The busiest places are the Dollar Store and the Salvation Army. The bookstore is gone. There are lots of empty spaces at the mall. Everyone hopes that the promised container port will turn things around, but the situation is bleak all across northern BC and southeastern Alaska, as well.

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I toured the museum again and especially enjoyed the works of Frieda Diesing - a woman who revived many northwestern art forms and taught today's generation of artists. I started to get worried about Jean Pierre, but he showed up at 4:00. He'd had rain most of the way. He stayed at the new lodge at Kwinitsa, but had had a slow day today because his neck was really bothering him. While he napped, I went down and had a big ice cream cone on the pier at Cow Bay.

That evening we had dinner at Smiles Seafood Cafe - great salmon - and the cafe dates back to the 1930s. After a short stroll we went back to the hostel. By this time I had checked both the U.S. and Canadian forecasts for Alaska and the Yukon. More rain - heavy rain. So I decided to take the BC Ferry south and bag the Alaska portion of my trip. I had just had it with the rain. I need sunshine. To bed, to bed - - the ferry leaves at 7:30 in the morning.