July 19, 2005
Day 63: Rampart Creek to Upper Athabasca
It was very, very chilly when I got up at six. I had breakfast with the whole bunch of Adventure Cycling folks. We traded tips and not-so-golden-moments stories. Only another touring cyclist could understand. I got started before the sun was even over the mountain, but the sky was blue. Hooray! Hooray!
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When the sun did finally peek over the mountain top, I stopped and stretched out in the sunshine to warm up. The upper valley of the North Saskatchewan was glorious in the early morning light with wisps of fog rising from last night's rain. I still was chilly, but the big climb up the switchbacks of Sunwapta Pass quickly cured that.
Because of a persistent headwind it was tricky. I would alternate between being hot and chilled - plus I was getting pretty soaked underneath as I sweated my way up the mountain. Ah - - but the reward was a sublime view of the peaks at the crest - a cirque filled with snow, blue skies, dollops of clouds, and the deep green forest below.
It was only a short climb further to the top and then a quick ride down to the Icefields Centre. What a transition! It seemed like thousands of people and Brewster busses lined up to take them all on the glacier tour. I have often joked that they should rename Jasper Park, Brewster Park.
I did the all-you-can-eat buffet and, although pricey, got my money's worth. Plus I had a window view of the Athabasca Glacier as I ate plate after plate of salmon and rice. As I was finishing, I met Jean Pierre who was riding a Parks to Pacific route.
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The ride down from the glacier was pleasant, but the truly spectacular scenery was now in my mirror - not in front of me. I got to Sunwapta Falls, had a piece of apple pie, and headed back into the wilderness.
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Big Bend has to be the most stunning campsite in the whole world - a 360 degree panorama of snow-capped mountains and the glacier-fed Athabasca River sweeping around the point. I met a young guy from Quebec, Pierre, who was working at the Sunwapta Lodge and a couple from northern Ontario, Luc and Leigh, who had their two doggies with them. We threw sticks into the river a zillion times and they still wanted more. As night fell, a full moon rose over the distant mountains - casting a long, creamy reflection on the river. It was magical.
Today's ride: 58 miles (93 km)
Total: 3,396 miles (5,465 km)
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