July 16, 2005
Day 60: Highwood River to Canmore
The pictures here are what it would have looked like if the weather had been reasonable and if I could have taken Spray Lakes Road. But the weather was miserable and I wasn't about to do a bunch of miles on dirt. I had checked the forecast in Pincher Creek and they had predicted rain for today. Sure enough, I got up to a rain shower at dawn, but it didn't last long. So I packed up everything and rode to the Highwood store at the highway junction.
I got to the store at seven, but it didn't open until nine. So I parked my bike under the porch and called Rebecca and Cathie back in North Carolina. There was actually a little blue sky at first, but that was soon replaced by a steady rain. Once the store opened, I had some coffee and cookies and waited and waited. I tried to catch a ride to the Trans-Canada Highway but had no luck. So when the rain let up around noon I set out on a cold ride.
The road up to Highwood Pass was a roller coaster - built as a "scenic" road for cars but a killer for cyclists - especially when it it just above freezing with a steady drizzling rain. There was even a little sleet at the pass. How else would you explain the little pinging sounds coming from my bike frame? I took advantage of an outhouse to change out of all my soaking wet clothes - probably more from climbing than from the rain.
Then I started on the long downhill ride in the Kananaskis Valley. The weather improved dramatically as I dropped lower. I stopped by the store at Kananaskis Village for some essential chocolate milk, then kept heading on for Canmore. I had called from Highwood and was able to get a reservation at the hostel there. Upon reaching the Trans-Canada, however, it started raining again - hard. Plus I was getting sprayed by all the traffic, especially the semis. It cleared off and I was almost dry when I got hit by a downpour just outside of Canmore.
I gave up any pretense of staying dry since I would be getting to the hostel soon. Little did I know that the hostel was out from town and 100 meters up a dirt road. The switchbacks had turned into a muddy quagmire. I reached the hostel at 9:30 - just before dark - totally exhausted - and totally pissed off. Fortunately, three Brits - Steph, Rich and Bill - got me in better spirits with some hot tea and a little humour - which of course is different from American humor. I was immensely grateful.
Today's ride: 90 miles (145 km)
Total: 3,231 miles (5,200 km)
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