July 5, 2005
Day 49: Norris Geyser Basin to Livingston
Got up early - no frost today - and tried to get everything as dry as possible before packing up and heading off. The road to Mammoth was already busy since the Dunraven Pass section of the Grand Loop is closed still. It was hard to enjoy the cycling and the scenery given the traffic - especially after someone honked hard at me and flipped me off.
I was totally fed up with Yellowstone by this time. I did take the Upper Terrace Loop for the first time. Even though the grades were steep, it was a pleasant surprise with few people and wonderful springs and geysers. That helped a little. When I got to park headquarters at Mammoth, there wasn't anybody in the planning office. I did talk to a ranger at the visitor's center who gave me the name of the planning director.
Americans are getting huge - obscenely obese. When they visit Yellowstone, they eat ice cream and buy XXL sweatshirts with a wolf on them. Yeah, I eat ice cream too, but I do a bit of exercise as well. I noticed on this trip that more and more people are driving into pull-outs and taking pictures from their car windows. I found myself yelling, "Get out of your cars!" Oh well, at least the little white wagon didn't come pick me up.
I tried to have lunch - peanut butter and jelly and milk, but one of those fat tourists sat down next to me and wouldn't leave me alone - a zillion questions and the annoying butt jokes. I was glad to leave the park. I zoomed down the switchbacks and the temperature climbed fast. It was hot and stifling in Gardner. After stopping for groceries, I rode along the Yellowstone River and took the old Eastside Road which was totally empty.
The heat was getting pretty intense, so I took a break at the Paradise fishing access site. I was right beside the river - flopped down on a picnic table in the shade of giant cottonwood trees. There was just a slight - and blessedly welcome - breeze. And a robin. There was a robin on a branch directly above me. He preened all his feathers - I should have moved - and sure enough, he pooped on me as he flew off.
So I got back on my bike and pushed on towards Livingston. I had a root beer at Pine Creek and was much refreshed.
When I got to Livingston, I met Pat - a guy cycling from Salt Lake City to Great Falls - at the bar in the Murray Hotel downtown. I told him that we might be able to find a spot to camp at the fairgrounds - and just like I said - the groundskeeper said we could stay there. I had already had a burger, but went out with Pat and watched him consume a whole pizza. That's what cycling can do to your appetite - especially if you're young. I went over to the Dairy Queen afterwards and had a super chocolately shake while he went downtown for another beer. We got back to our tents and to sleep near midnight.
Today's ride: 86 miles (138 km)
Total: 2,556 miles (4,113 km)
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