July 4, 2005
Day 48: Lewis Lake to Norris Geyser Basin
Happy Birthday, U.S.A.! Too bad the Constitution has been gutted by Bush & Co.
I woke up to frost on my tent and on my bike. Even so, I left before sunrise to take advantage of low traffic. It was very, very chilly indeed, but as the sun rose - and because the forests had burned in 1988 - the sunshine warmed me up pretty quickly. I stopped by West Thumb geyser basin. I love the combination of steam and lake shore. Even if it's not a very large geyser basin - the two together, early in the morning, symbolize Yellowstone for me.
I rode along the lake shore. Even on the 4th, it was quiet this early in the morning - with stunning views of the Absarokas and Mount Sheridan to the south. I stopped at the Lake Hotel - the oldest hotel in the park - but it seemed oversized and inappropriate rather than elegant. A person was being helicopter-evacuated out from the clinic. I couldn't help thinking how helicopters are used to save lives in the U.S. and take them in Iraq.
The bike trail to Fishing Bridge wasn't marked, nor was the connector to the Loop Road. So much for the park service encouraging cycling. Then I got onto the Lake-to-Canyon Road which was rebuilt just last year. Although there were huge paved pullouts, there were no shoulders for bicycles. I had had it with the NPS at Yellowstone. It was clear to me that despite the past twenty years of rhetoric about there being too much traffic, the park continues to accommodate more and more cars and ever larger RVs.
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I biked along the old road at Upper Falls. Although it's paved and 20 feet wide, it is indicated as a trail on park maps. I found out later that bikes were not permitted. So I broke the law. Big Deal! Also, the Canyon Overlook Loop is one-way - not even a bike lane. Parking areas are all one-way loops and there is even a cloverleaf interchange at Old Faithful. Well, at least I had a great chocolate shake at the Canyon Lodge.
Then it was on to Norris. Yet again - the hiker/biker campsites were not indicated either at the fee station or by any signage on the loops. After circling all three loops, I finally had to stop and ask the campground host to show me. After I got my tent set up I met my neighbors, John and Paul, who invited me over for burgers and a card game. I found a spot on the creek up from the campsite with a little hot spring where I had a short soak - then went over to Norris Geyser Basin for sunset.
I like Norris so much more than Old Faithful - you can wander around the basins in peace and quiet. Unfortunately, my favorite geyser, Echinus, no longer erupts since an earthquake in the early 1990s changed the plumbing. Got back to my tent after dark. Another chilly night - but welcomed rest.
Today's ride: 60 miles (97 km)
Total: 2,470 miles (3,975 km)
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