June 29, 2005
Day 43: Rock Springs to Big Sandy River
Woke up early to the sound of diesel motors revving - of course! Stopped by the grocery to top off my supply and then headed downtown. There's even less than four years ago. Strip joints, bars, thrift stores, and empty store fronts. Everything is on Foothills Boulevard and out by I-80. It's such a shame because Rock Springs has the most vibrant history of any Wyoming town - the Union Pacific, coal mining, violence, ethnic neighborhoods, and Teno Roncalio - from rags to congressman.
The architecture, the railroad, the jumble of streets heading in whatever direction all make for a delightful historic district. Unfortunately, it's been left to a few poor people and government employees - urban America in miniature. I spent two hours at the library on the computer - then in the art gallery, where there are incredible early 20th century paintings of Rock Springs.
I wandered around town taking pictures. The railroad bisects downtown creating a Chinese Wall of sorts. I took the bike/pedestrian underpass which is great since the overpass is being rebuilt. There is a little park on the north side - next to downtown but tucked away. It's an island of green and quiet. The World War I memorial clearly shows the ethnic mix in Rock Springs a hundred years ago - English, Irish, Slavic, Greek.
It was cool and crisp with gumdrop clouds scutting across a deep blue sky. I put off leaving as long as possible since there was a strong northwest wind. But finally, I just had to gather up the gumption to leave.
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It was a tough slog. The cars and trucks that came towards me in the other lane slammed me with their drafts. The increase in traffic is astounding - again, oil and gas development. Get as much as you can - as fast as you can.
The Farson Merc and its renowned ice cream stand have new owners. Now they sell chainsaw bears made in China to the tourists and charge two prices for the ice cream. Hardly a stopping point anymore. After a long rest I headed out for the Big Sandy River. I found some sagebrush flats a few miles off the highway with immense and endless views - the Wind River Mountains far to the north and the sun setting in the west.
Today's ride: 58 miles (93 km)
Total: 2,214 miles (3,563 km)
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