June 19, 2005
Day 33: Day Off on the High Road
Anne and I had another lazy morning together, then we drove up the High Road to Taos. We stopped at the Sanctuario de Chimayo, an ancient chapel and the spiritual center of northern New Mexico. Nearly 200 years old, it has been a place of pilgrimage and a source of healing throughout its existence. We walked around the courtyard, then went inside to see the murals of the santos. And the visit wouldn't have been complete without a stop at a gift shop on the plaza to buy a tiny milagro for general good health.
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From Chimayo the road climbs to Truchas and Picuris. Even with the "discovery" of northern New Mexico by Anglos, these communities remain very traditional. We had a late lunch on the balcony of a restaurant on the Taos Plaza. We went down to Ranchos de Taos to see San Francisco de Asis, made famous by Ansel Adams and Georgia O'Keeffe and a host of other artists. No other Spanish colonial church conveys the power of faith so well - its very walls suggesting an enduring anchor against a fickle and changeable world. It was surprisingly quiet in the courtyard. I expected more people on a Sunday afternoon. We did visit with a family from Argentina. I took their picture at the gate.
I had planned on biking from Taos, but Anne wanted to spend a little more time together - so we drove on up to Questa and each had a big ice cream at a little café. From there we went on out to the Rio Grande Gorge. Neither of us had been there before. We were stunned how beautiful it was. We strolled out to La Junta Point - where the Red River meets the Rio Grande far below. Too soon, Anne had to leave to get back to Santa Fe.
I started setting up my stuff at the campsite. A big family was across the way at a picnic table, but they started packing up. Then I was the only person there. The moon rose - nearly full - over the Sangre de Cristos - set atop the tableland like the mountains we all drew in second grade - the moonlight silhouetting the gorges. It was a wonderful weekend.
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