May 20, 2005
Day 3: Sunset Beach to Mercey Hot Springs
Audra and I got up early, had breakfast, and headed out for another look at the ocean. Audra discovered she had yet another flat tire to fix, so I just hung out at the picnic table on the cliff above the ocean. We rode out through the marshes on the south side of the park rather than backtrack over the bluffs, but it was a little tough for Audra on a road bike. All too soon Audra had to turn south, so we parted with a hug and wished each other safe journeys. I was grateful for a gentle companion for the start of my tour.
I rode past fields and fields of strawberries around Pajaro. Audra told me to read "Reefer Madness" to learn about how strawberry corporations exploit illegal workers. Even so, I stopped by a company store and pigged out on a quart of cheap, cool, fresh strawberries.
I decided to take Aromitas Road - dirt and very steep - not a very smart idea. But Anzar Road was great - empty, old barns, and wildflowers. And even through it is right on top of the San Andreas Fault, I made it through without the "Big One" hitting.
Mission San Juan Bautista was swarming with schoolkids. In the courtyard in front of the church, they found a snake. You would have thought that no one had ever seen a snake before - hundreds of kids rushing to see it. He must have been terrified. I don't know if there's some religious meaning in this.
After leaving the mission, I had to get on the highway towards Hollister. The traffic was horrendous, but there was a shoulder. I was thankful to get onto Union Road and looked forward to the peace and quiet of Panoche Road. Unfortunately, I had my first flat and discovered that Al hadn't put my Mr. Tuffys back in when he overhauled my bike.
Panoche Road proved as beautiful as ever, especially after the near-record rain this past winter. Blue skies, light tailwinds, and an empty road. Could a person ask for more?? I topped the pass later than planned, given the late start and various delays, but still had to stop at the Panoche Tavern for a couple of root beers and peanuts in the shell. Dogs, kids, and neighbors all wander through the open doors - no lattes here.
So I left the tavern with the sun low on the horizon and biked over the divide to Mercey Hot Springs just as it was getting dark. I had a long soak in the springs, then set up my tent under the pine trees to be lulled to sleep by the soft chirrups of all the birds who call this desert oasis, home.
Today's ride: 73 miles (117 km)
Total: 143 miles (230 km)
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