June 12, 2005
Day 26: Day Off in the Hopi Villages
High atop Second Mesa, Itty and I woke to a beautiful blue day after a rainy and windy night. I asked Itty how his knee was - he said that it was no better and that he would have to head back to Flagstaff. I had hoped that a day off might help, but Itty was pretty sure it wouldn't. We went over to the restaurant and had breakfast. I picked up the local weekly paper to read.
There was an article about former Hopi tribal chairman, Vernon Masayesva. He had spoken at the Hopi High School graduation. He said that the three most important things were an ear of corn, a gourd of water, and a planting stick. The ear of corn was food for the body and soul. The gourd showed that water was finite and valuable. And the planting stick was a tool that must be used wisely. He closed by saying, "Terrorism is the fruit of our greed."
They really do think and speak differently in Hopi country.
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*This image does not use/copy any exclusively Hopi designs.
We were fortunate to be in the Hopi villages for the spring katsina dances. Itty was able to catch a ride to Shungopavi with a group of students from Ohio. I rode over and left my bike with a group of jewelers a short ways from the plaza. I had a hard time finding Itty. It turned out he was on a roof top. He said that he was uncomfortable - that he felt like he was intruding. I asked permission and found a unobstrusive place in the alley leading into the plaza.
I was honored to be able to witness these ceremonies, but I respect the wishes of the Hopi and will not describe them. I did have the chance to help an old woman carry a large watermelon back to her pick-up which made the experience all the more satisfying. At one time the rain was essential for the corn and, thus, for survival. Now it matters little. Or does it?
I went back by the table where I had left my bike. The jewelers laughed when I said I was heading up to Alaska. But the funny thing is - whether sitting at a table selling jewelry or riding on back roads - we share a common experience outside of the mainstream. They asked me why and I felt I told them in terms they understood. I bought a beautiful pair of turquoise-on-shell earrings for Abby back in Topeka.
I rode back to the campsite and looked for Itty. We toured the museum. The portrait photos from the late 1800s are incredibly powerful. We whiled away the afternoon playing chess in the courtyard to get out of the wind - a perfect tailwind. Itty decided he would meet me in Taos or in Glenwood Springs.
*Note - Hopi policy forbids the taking of photographs or recording any rituals. For centuries, native peoples have been prodded, measured, photographed, and catalogued. The Hopi have finally said, "No more!" If you cycle through Hopi, please strictly abide by their wishes.
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