June 9, 2005
Day 23: Hiking the South Kaibab Trail
Cynthia, Itty, and I got up super early for the hike out. It turned out that Cynthia was going up the same day - so we decided to hike together. I would have loved to have stayed an extra day with Rutha, but I figure Itty will need the extra time when we get back on our bikes.
We decided to hike up the South Kaibab. It's two miles shorter, but steeper, with very little shade, and no water. So it was essential that we start early. We stopped at the mule corral for our formal group photo. And because Cynthia and Rutha baked the wranglers some brownies, we were able to send most of our stuff up on the mules. So we had a super light hike.
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Rutha walked with us down to the river and waved to us as we crossed the black bridge. After we hiked through the tunnel and started up the switchbacks, we looked back and she was still there waving. I pulled off my purple bandana and did the big, movie star wave back.
The views were truly stunning from the ridgelines. When we got to the top of the Red & Whites, we sat on a rock ledge and had brunch. Endless vistas of the canyon spread before us - mesas with names like Zoroaster's Temple and Cheops Pyramid - and the Colorado River far below.
What a perfect hike it turned out to be! We had only an hour of sun before the clouds rolled in. It was the coolest, easiest hike out I've ever had. We topped out, found our bikes is perfect shape at the Bright Angel Lodge, and said our goodbyes to Cynthia. Then we headed over to the campground and got our tents up just before the rain started.
So we dashed over to the shopping center - yeah, right - shopping center and had a bite to eat. It's a far cry from being down at Phantom Ranch. Tourists and cars and stores galore. But it was perfect for what we needed - a table in the cafeteria - a big bowl of soup - and a place to just hang out while it rained.
Today's ride: 7 miles (11 km)
Total: 1,104 miles (1,777 km)
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