June 4, 2005
Day 18: Hurricane to Zion National Park
Got up early. Rolled up my sleeping bag. Headed for McDonalds. Yup, McDonalds. I always feel I have to apologize, but it's open early, it's cheap, and you usually know what you're getting. Cafes can be hit or miss - and if I miss I end up paying for the greasy breakfast all day long.
The ride to Zion National Park was really easy - just one climb out of La Verkin - then the road followed the Virgin River all the way. The vistas around every bend were those found only in southern Utah - blue sky, red rocks, the lush green of cottonwoods along the river.
As we approached Zion, we passed numerous signs begging people to leave their cars outside of the park and use the shuttle busses. When we got to the park gate, there was a long line of cars. We waited our turn.
Once in the park, we dashed to the campground since there were no hiker/biker sites. We selected what we thought was an open site, only to be told that it was reserved. Fortunately, there was a site that someone had cancelled out on, otherwise we wouldn't have had a place to camp. In addition, we were told that we would have to catch a ride through the tunnel on our way out of the park. I asked whether or not there was shuttle service and was told that there was not.
So, I went to the park headquarters to chat with a park ranger. Just as I started talking, a person came by and started yelling that cyclists should be banned from the roads. He was mad that they slowed down his RV. The ranger was pleasant and professional, but he just didn't get it. Here Zion Park was being overrun by cars, yet the park was doing nothing to promote cycling and everything in the world to placate the RVers. Seems to me that it isn't bicycles that make the tunnel dangerous for RVs, but RVs that make the tunnel dangerous for bicycles. Maybe I'm a hard-ass, but I feel compelled to speak out for cycling access. When I got back to the campsite, Itty just rolled his eyes and said he was glad I didn't get arrested.
Itty and I whiled away the afternoon sitting on rocks in the shade by the river, playing chess, and generally solving all the world's problems. There was a group of middle-aged guys just upstream wading out into to river. Although narrow, it was red-brown and roiling with snowmelt and runoff from recent storms. We were both afraid that one of them would be swept away. I said I would have to jump in. Itty said he wouldn't. Fortunately, we never had to make that decision.
In the evening, we took our bikes on the shuttle up to the Narrows. We hiked up the river, then had an incredible ride back. The sun had dropped below the western wall of the canyon, leaving the valley floor in its shadow, but the rock walls and towers remained brightly illuminated. And the river rushed alongside us all the way back to our campsite. For dinner it was gourmet peanut butter and jelly sandwiches and fig newtons. A wonderful day - all in all - and now I'm ready for a good night's sleep.
Today's ride: 24 miles (39 km)
Total: 957 miles (1,540 km)
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