June 13, 2014
Day 16 - Riggins: Rain Waiting It Out-Friday the Thirteenth
Best laid plans are sometimes best if flexible.....we are truly learning this lesson on this trip.
We were packed and ready to go.......just had to run across the street for quick breakfast burrito, coffee and we would be on our way. We saw Richard just heading out and wished him well and said we will see you up the road.
At the local coffee shop (which might compare to Peet's in taste and smell) we met a local fisherman who just came from White Bird and said it was pouring with more expected all day. Could we wait a day and it would be gone? We explained that the hotel was booked and he suggested camping along the River as it is BLM land. We could do that however wouldn't a day off be more enjoyable in a nice room with power? So, we checked and the nice owner here at Riggins Motel did her magic switched a room around and here we will stay until tomorrow. Right here we only have sprinkles but there is a nasty headwind in the direction of White Bird. Sorry Richard....we wish you well and hope to catch you again!
Having this day off gives me time to give you a little more insight as to how it feels to travel at 3-25 miles per hour. The first things you notice are the smells. When you are not in a car with the controlled air environment there are lots of smells!
The good ones we have enjoyed so far are: Fir trees in Oregon. They smell like the best cotton candy in the world to me....we had that smell the first week or so. Then we moved into Ponderosa Pine forests and the sweet butterscotch was in the air. Hay and alfalfa being watered, cut and drying were all the way through Oregon and into Idaho. Those smells were so familiar to me having grown up in Kansas. The last few days in Oregon there was a strong sweet smell coming from some blooming bush along the road. I don't know what it was but it was like a jasmine and honeysuckle mixed.
Then there are the River smells....just the water moving so fast gives off a wonderful scent.....not like the ocean we are used to but just fresh earth/water mix and the sound of the water is so relaxing to have by your side while riding. We have had water running beside us for I would say 3/4 of the trip so far...I know that will change and I will miss it. Not only is it soothing it is cooling and acts as an air conditioner. We could be in a hot canyon and turn the corner and there would be a River or a creek and instantly the temp would drop five degrees.
As I am writing this I just remembered the smell of fresh cut pine trees as they blast past us at 60+ mph on the logging trucks (more about that in the section on traffic) once they are past you there is this huge rush of fresh cut pine!! Also, rushing past at times are cattle carriers that is a blast of air guess you might only enjoy if you grew up going to cattle auctions every week as I did. My Dad was a livestock auctioneer and when I was young we spent our Saturdays at the 'sale barn'.....let's just say it is an acquired smell experience to enjoy.
Of course, at this speed not all the smells are good and we have had a few run-ins with road kill. There have been the expected deer.....however we have had five deer encounters which have been live and no deer harmed or biker. Two have come down off the hill and run right in front of Jack then there have been three more that were bounding along right beside us in the shrub. We have been careful and have not had them hit us. Thankfully!
The road kill that has most surprised me are the butterflies. There have been hundreds......we have seen beautiful ones nearly daily and they are so intent in their flitting around and looks like mating at times they are totally unaware of any danger approaching .....such as this large wall of orange coming at them. Yes, we have even been the cause of a death or two of the smaller ones. ;( then there are the bees.....lots of dead bees on the road. We have seen a few full skeletons of large mammals but couldn't ID at my fast pace (LOL).
Traffic and roads: the shoulders, when there are shoulders (which has been about 90% of the trip) are great...wide and clean. The cleanest we have seen....so nice not to be on the look out for nails, glass or whatever all the time. When there is no shoulder it can be a little concerning at times. The first few days in Oregon we had lots of traffic then for several days we were in areas where there was little to no traffic. Since we have been in Idaho we have pretty much been on heavily traveled Hwys...we are currently on Hwy 95 which seems to be a main road for trucks and lumber trucks. They do travel very fast however nearly everyone has been very safe and given us a wide berth...they go way around even into the far lane if they can. The only ones who do not do this are the logging trucks! They stay right in their lane and blow right by. (I later learned they can't change lanes quickly as it shifts their load) They seem to be good drivers just be aware when there is no shoulder get over and off ....if you need. I am very thankful for my rear-view mirror.
I have had only one experience where I had to yell "Ass#%€*" Otto style from the movie 'A Fish Called Wanda'. Everyone else has been great. Jack put little American flags on the back of our roller bags with safety in mind. I told him I didn't need to proclaim my patriotism but he said he read that people may not respect us (bicycle riders) but they would respect the flag.....it seems to be working!
Getting away from life in California it is amazing to see how the rest of the country lives. We have been through some really small communities that seem to be thriving. Communities of only 200-400. I have noticed in journals of travelers on the southern tier that there seems to be a lot of decline and economic devastation. We have not seen that so much on this route. It might be that This route is so remote at times that there is just a constant population....not growing and not declining. There are some places where it looks like there have been difficult times but not terrible. The ranches and farms look well maintained and cared for. Ranching is huge in eastern Oregon and western Idaho. Grangeville will be our first 'city' about 3,500 there might be a different story there.
Well it isn't raining here much just a little .....trying not to feel guilty about this day off. It should benefit us in the long run. Going to try and add some photos but don't count on it. This city girl is getting used to slowwwwwwwww WiFi. Slow it down Janet.....enjoy the pace. As I mentioned yesterday we are enjoying ourselves more and more each day. This is beautiful country and will only get better!!
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