December 1, 2023
Goat Rock Beach
We’re both antsy to get back on the bikes - especially Rachael, who hasn’t really been on hers since we returned from Spain over a month ago. It’s the longest she’s been out of the saddle for years. And with a short drive tomorrow that will leave us most of the day free, we’ve been planning on a pair of rides from Jenner. Back in Portland I mapped out four candidates for us to consider when the time comes.
Well, considering time is here and we reject all four of them. The main thing we want to see here is the beach really, so we need to fit a walk in somewhere. And it’s chilly enough that we’re not likely to take a walk and a bike ride both on the same day. And, the weather situation has deteriorated - we’d been expecting two days of sun, but now it looks like rain will arrive later this afternoon, and stay around through tomorrow.
Our priority is a walk though, so that’s what we’ll do today and then hope we get lucky with the weather tomorrow. As soon as we’ve done with our spectacular breakfast and it feels warm enough we hop in the car and drive the short distance to Goat Rock Beach at lands end on the opposite bank of the bay. The plan is that we’ll drive down to the beach itself and walk along the sand for awhile before relocating higher up for a hike I’ve mapped out along the Kortum Trail.
The beach hike is a huge success. The landscape is breathtaking and it’s a delight to watch a large flock of gulls feeding in the mouth of the river, joined by a steady stream of brown pelicans flying in from the south, hanging out for awhile, and then returning the direction they arrived from. On the water the pelicans beat their massive wings against it, making a loud slapping sound that can be heard from a hundred yards away.
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A very handsome structure!
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We’re down on the beach for nearly two hours - longer than we’d intended because it’s so exceptional. By now though Rachael’s gotten cold enough from the wind that she’s ready to head back to the room and hover by the small space heater. I drive her back, and then leave alone to go back and walk the Kortum Trail. Rachael’s not done with her day of course, and will later leave herself for a walk along the coast and up to a viewpoint, and return with stories of locked gates, trespassing, and cows. Perhaps she’ll share them with us someday.
The Kortum Trail is roughly five miles long, so a ten mile out and back if I were to walk the whole thing - which I won’t because even with ibuprofen and the fading benefit from that steroid shot back in August, ten miles here plus a few in the sand is more than the joint would bear unless it were a desperate situation. Which it isn’t. It’s my birthday actually, so I’m being nice to myself and only walk as far as feels right before turning around. And besides, rain is due to roll in. And it does, beginning just as I’m driving back to the car, and about an hour and a half before a soaked Rachel steps in the door dripping on everything and talking about cows.
For dinner we drive back to Duncan’s Mills and the Cape Fear cafe, which is quite a bit better than than the blue Heron. Rachael has Mahogany chicken, and I have a bowl of clam chowder followed by an embarrassingly large serving of fish and chips which makes me feel like I might rupture when I’m done. The drive back in the pitch dark is like last night’s but worse because we’re driving through a downpour.
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