River Mountain / Wetlands Trail

February 2, 2023

Boulder City is turning into a regular stop on our southern migrations. We favor it for its position, roughly equidistant between Tucson and the coast. And we find the town itself appealing, a fairly small, comfortable place with character and style that’s much more to our taste than the madness of nearby Las Vegas. But above all we come here because of the River Mountains Loop Trail, the exceptional cycling path that encircles the River Mountains.

The loop trail itself is a challenging 35 mile circuit with 2,500 feet of climbing, and is extensible by venturing out branching trails along the Las Vegas Wash to the north and to Hoover Dam on the east. We’ve ridden the complete loop in the past, but for us it really works well to break it into two out and back day rides. Today we’re starting at the trailhead parking lot behind the Railroad Pass Hotel and Casino, about five miles west of Boulder City.

We really look forward to these rides, remembering how much we’ve enjoyed them in the past. Like returning to Borrego Springs and Tucson though, we always find ourselves stunned anew when we first return by the magnificent topography and views here and by how rewarding the ride is. Today might be our favorite ride of the winter this year.

Oh, and one more point before starting out - don’t miss the video, which really captures the spirit of the experience. Rachael was almost bouncing up and down with glee when she started reviewing what she came back with today. In fact, let’s just start there.

Video sound track: Sunshine Express, by the Bud Shank Quartet

Today’s ride begins with a fast ten mile drop down the west side of the loop, with the River Mountains on the right and the town of Henderson on the left. Beyond Henderson are long, broad views to Las Vegas and the mountains rising behind it. It’s a chilly morning, barely above 50 when we start out, and we’ll need our coats for these first ten miles as we drop a thousand feet to Las Vegas Wash at the northern end of the loop.

Northbound on the western side of the loop, starting the long drop to the Las Vegas Wash.

The view west across Henderson to downtown Las Vegas. We’ve never been here when there was so much snow on those mountains! And what mountains are those, anyway? Is that Charleston Peak?

The first of a series of steep drops - 16%, then 13, then 15 - that come in quick succession. They hold your attention in both directions.

Here’s the last of the three. At the end the trail flattens out for a ways as it nears Las Vegas Wash.

We’re only spending about half of today’s ride on the loop itself. For the next ten miles we’re branching off to the west on the Wetlands Park - North Loop Trail as it roughly follows the course of Las Vegas Wash. before we get there though there’s a three mile connector to be crossed - a flat trail north toward Lake Las Vegas, the resort development that surrounds an artificial lake fed by the wash.

We’ve never detoured into Lake Las Vegas itself, but its backdrop is stunning with technicolor hills and ridges rising behind it.

Still biking north, on the River Mountains-Wetlands Connector. That reddish formation is Razorback Ridge, I think.

It seems like it should be easy to figure out what this is, but I give up.

I’ll admit to an ulterior motive in proposing this ride, thinking I might see a new bird or two if there’s any water running in the wash. And in that I’m not disappointed. There’s an abundance of water today, and it’s definitely drawn in the birds. They’re mostly too far out for a good look; and they’re predominantly just coots, slipping and sliding on moss covered rocks trying to keep their footing in the rapids. Beyond that I can make out a heron and some of the usual assortment of ducks, but there’s one bird that looks unfamiliar so I snap it and hope for the best.

There’s an abundance of water coming down Las Vegas Wash today. Like the Santa Cruz below Tucson, I think this is sourced from Henderson’s treated wastewater.

That’s satisfying, of course - the first new species in awhile - but there’s so much more here. The colorful rock formations are fantastic and mesmerizing, and the ride itself is a pure delight as the path ripples along over a series of short washboard rollers that are just the right slope and height so that you can swoop down one and glide up the next. Awesome fun - but then you already knew that from watching the video.

And, as if this wasn’t enough to make the day, I can’t believe it when I look across a slack spot in the wash and see a lone white pelican drifting along the opposite shore, and then slowly, gradually drifting my way. Worth waiting for.

And then, stopped for about the sixth or seventh time to gaze in wonder at the rock formations, I’m startled to look down and see a coyote keeping his eye on me.

Another view to the west, toward what I think must be Charleston Peak.

Astonishing. It reminds us that we really aren’t that far south of the Valley of Fire.

Theories on how such a large stump ended up here? Flash flood?

On the Wetlands Trail. This is quite a desolate stretch. A sign at one end warns walkers that it’s an empty, unserviced seven miles so take sun protection and plenty of water.

Along the wetlands. It’s a protected semi-natural environment, reminding me of the Sweetwater Preserve back in Tucson.

I catch up with Rachael where she’s waiting for me (doubling back to meet me, actually - she’ll pack in five more miles than me today) - as we near Wetlands Park. As we’re sitting there on a picnic bench she looks up and excitedly announces she sees a roadrunner on the opposite side of the split rail fence. I don’t see it myself, but I’ve no reason to doubt her - this gal knows her roadrunners by now.

But then I look in the opposite direction across a field and see four birds hopping around. Cowbirds maybe, I’m thinking at first. I haven’t seen a cowbird yet, though of course I’ll see thousands of them soon enough. I zoom in and see that it’s an even better find - meadowlarks. I stalk them a bit and slowly close in to get a better shot, ignoring the repeated excited announcements from the rear that the roadrunner is back.

And then, back to the car. Back across the rollercoaster, across the Wash, up the 15% climb, up the 13% climb that follows it, and up the 16% one beyond that. Finally it more or less levels out as we climb at a lazy grade for a few miles before dropping the last mile to the car.

A great day - the best of the winter, we both agree as we look over photos over dinner at Big T’s Cantina. And to top it off, we enjoy a real feast - generous servings of pan fried trout with pineapple chutney, tomato jam and sweet potatoes. Rachael raves about it all through the meal, making me regret that I didn’t think to take a food photo before we dug in. We’ve still got two nights here, so maybe we’ll get a second chance.

In Big T’s Cantina - it’s that kind of place.

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Ride stats today: 39 miles, 2,100’; for the tour: 1,463 miles, 49,600’

2023 Bird List

58. Common goldeneye

59. American white pelican

60. Western meadowlark

Today's ride: 39 miles (63 km)
Total: 1,421 miles (2,287 km)

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Comment on this entry	Comment	9

Suzanne GibsonGreat video! I could real feel the swooping up and down the rollers!

And 60 birds on the list! I can't remember but wasn't that the goal you set for your time in the US?
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1 year ago

Bob DistelbergThose rollers and curves in the video just look like so much fun!
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1 year ago

Rich FrasierThat's an amazing piece of cycling infrastructure. I wonder what it costs to maintain it?
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1 year ago

Rachael AndersonTo Suzanne GibsonThanks. I’m sure glad I got Scott to stay ahead of me. It’s an amazing ride!
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1 year ago

Scott AndersonTo Suzanne Gibson Don’t remember what my original aspirations were, but I’m definitely exceeding expectations so far.
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1 year ago

Susan CarpenterAmazing open landscapes, big sky, and a roller coaster ride - what’s not to love. And a spectacular video to boot - my stomach was doing little flip-flops as I “rode along” - Great job Rachael in giving us a real feel your experience
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1 year ago

Scott AndersonTo Rich FrasierI don’t know, but it certainly is impressive. Here’s some background on its creation: https://rivermountainstrail.org/history/. It’s well maintained, and expanding - we came across a significant enhancement on today’s ride along the eastern half.
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1 year ago

Scott AndersonTo Bob DistelbergFun is exactly right. It’s all great, but it’s worth coming down here for just that stretch of the system.
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1 year ago

Rachael AndersonTo Susan CarpenterIt’s a wonderful place for cycling and hiking!
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1 year ago