Rachael and I put considerable thought into how we wanted to visit Arches National Park this time. In our last visit to Moab we were here without the car and visited the park by bicycling from town, riding through its southern half and taking the iconic hike to Delicate Arch. We were younger and fitter then and might have continued further north, but were stopped by a major road resurfacing project that closed the entire north end of the park. The one thing we knew is that we wanted to see the northern end this time, and especially Landscape Arch, a giant filament whose end seems near. If we don’t get out there this time, we might never see it.
The other consideration is traffic and parking. Arches is very popular, doesn’t have a huge parking capacity, and spaces can fill up quickly. We don’t want to find ourselves in one of those ridiculous traffic jams where cars are idling or cycling through parking lots waiting for someone to leave and open up their space.
We decide on a hike-and bike; or rather, a hike-and-bike-and-hike-and-bike. We’ll get an early start, drive to the Devils Garden trailhead at the north end of the park, and leave our car there for the day. We’ll hike from there to Landscape Arch, and maybe beyond that to Double O Arch. After returning to the car we’ll bike ten miles south to the Windows Section for a second, shorter hike to see another famous cluster of arches, and then bike back to the car.
With that in mind, we leave the apartment at 8 and arrive at Devils Garden a half hour later. There’s not much traffic yet, and no wait at the entrance gate; but when we arrive at the parking lot it’s already well over half full. You really do want to get an early start.
When we start our hike at 8:30 the parking lot is already well over half full even though it’s still cold, just a few degrees above freezing.
It’s an easy one mile hike to Landscape Arch, along a well graded, fairly level trail. Along the way are two short spurs to admire Pine Tree and Tunnel Arches, both quite beautiful. This early in the day the traffic is still light and we can appreciate all three arches in relative solitude. When we walk out along this stretch five hours later it is much more congested.
On the trail to Landscape Arch. It looks congested here, but it’s just coincidental. For most of the next hour we only have a few others in sight at any time.
The easy trail ends at Landscape Arch, and many turn back here. We’re continuing on though for anther mile to see Double O Arch and a couple of others nearby. The ‘trail’ the rest of the way is classified as primitive, which is certainly accurate. Here’s how the Primitive Trail is described in the park brochure:
This trail to Double O Arch is difficult as it steeply climbs up and on the sandstone fins. Footing is rocky; there are narrow ledges with steep drop-offs. Hikers must use their hands and feet to scramble and climb. Not recommended when rock is wet or snowy, or for those uncomfortable with heights or exposure.
This is accurate, and if anything understated. This is probably the least secure we have felt on any hike we can remember. Angel’s Landing in Zion comes to mind, and Striding Edge in England’s Lake District. There were at least two points on the hike to Double O where we stopped to strengthen our resolve and seriously considered whether to turn back. We interrogated a few hikers coming the other way, got reassured by their thoughts that the worst was behind us, and continued on.
This was a memorable spot, climbing up the spine of a long fin. Rachael is trying to make it through this gap, before giving up and taking the scarier but technically easier challenge - around the left, on the outside of that massive boulder, squeezing against it and away from a precipitous drop-off.
On the back of another fin. These are deceptive - they look so wide in the photographs, but with their uneven surfaces and steep drop offs on either side, they make for an uneasy passage.
Partition Arch, off another spur before we come to Double O. The name of this one comes from it’s second window, which you can just faintly see to the right in this photo.
Looks like a superhighway, doesn’t it? It didn’t feel like one though, with a sheer 40’ drop off either side. Toward the end where it arches off and descends the other side we sat and thought awhile before continuing on.
Scott AndersonTo Suzanne GibsonWell, there was a bit of that too. It didn’t leave any hands free for the camera though. Reply to this comment 3 years ago
The country is amazing in all directions. To the south are the La Sals, and on the left is a parade of hikers trekking along the ridge of the fin we just crossed.
After Double O Arch, we faced a choice. We could walk back the way we came, which was unappealing - some spots seemed like they’d feel even more unnerving in the reverse direction sloping downhill. Or, we could continue forward on the Primitive Trail as it loops back around to the starting point by a different route. We polled a few other walkers going the other way and convinced ourselves that it would at least be no worse than what we’d already experienced.
Now they tell us! Apparently there’s also a sign like this at the start of the Primitive Trail that we missed seeing. But what’s the point of placing this here when it’s precarious in both directions? Call Uber maybe?
And, actually, on the whole it did seem safer; or maybe we were just gaining confidence from our experience. A good percentage of the route on this half is a safe, sandy trail. There are definitely moments though, and possibly the worst spot of the whole loop.
A lot of the eastern half of the Primitive Trail is like this - a safe sandy path threading between ghoulish sculptures.
Jen RahnSculptures that seem oh so ghoulish
Magnificent! Better than cool-ish!
On the Primitive Trail
We eat ham and kale
And the dropoffs make us feel a bit drool-ish. Reply to this comment 3 years ago
Scott AndersonTo Jen RahnI have the impression that many of your poems involve food. I think some statistical analysis into the poetry corner is in order. Reply to this comment 3 years ago
But then there are stretches like this. At first I was impressed that this party had climbed up there to get better views for their picnic lunch; but in fact, that’s the route.
Another spot that is scarier than this looks, scooting down a 15-20% sandstone slope to reach that dead branch apparently placed there as a handhold. The couple in front is the same one from early on in the hike at Pine Tree Arch.
Probably the worst spot on the whole loop. It’s not even clear where the route goes, though there is that tiny cairn on the left. You have carefully to angle your way forward toward that other party along a narrow, sloped ledge; and then find your way to a tiny step carved into the middle of a steep stretch.
Finally we’re past the last of the challenges, and soon we rejoin the easy part of the trail near Landscape Arch. Just a walk from here back to the parking lot, but with much heavier traffic than when we started out. If you take this hike, it’s definitely worth getting an early start for the solitude and the safety - I really wouldn’t want to be crossing those fins under pressure from inpatient hikers in more of a hurry than you are.
For the last hour Rachael’s been growing gradually more irritable. She’s hungry, and chastises me for suggesting that this would be a much shorter hike than it has been and that we could just have our lunch when we get back to the car. Once we’re back on the easy trail again she hurries on ahead and satisfies her cravings while I take my time.
We’ve long since abandoned the plan to bike down to the Windows section of the park for a second hike. It’s early afternoon by now, and even if we had the time we don’t have the inclination. We’ve had our experience for the day.
And the views are spectacular, as they have been for the last four hours.
Bob DistelbergThis looks like an incredibly fun and challenging hike. The arches, particularly Landscape Arch, is fascinating. Reply to this comment 3 years ago
Scott AndersonTo Bob DistelbergIt was an incredible hike. Knowing what we know now, it doesn’t seem all that scary in retrospect. I’d do it again, but of course it would never have the same magic as the first time. Reply to this comment 3 years ago
Steve Miller/GrampiesI happen to be re-reading Desert Solitaire just now! It's 1968, and Edward Abbey is railing against the increase of road traffic into Arches. It sounds much worse now. Reply to this comment 3 years ago
Scott AndersonTo Steve Miller/GrampiesI’m sure it’s much worse than back in Abbey’s day. The park had 135,000 visitors in 1968, and almost 1.7 million in 2019. I’ve been to the park three times now (1991, 2017, 2021), and it’s worse each time. It’s the first time I’ve been there with a car, and I felt guilty about it. I wonder if they won’t go the route of Zion some day, introduce busses, and block the cars at the entrance gate. Reply to this comment 3 years ago
Steve Miller/GrampiesTo Scott AndersonOur first experience with extreme car congestion in a park was in Great Smoky Mountains National Park about a dozen years ago, where you had to carefully watch and merge with traffic after stopping at overlooks. But even ten years before that, we found ourselves, on our bikes, crowded out of the campgrounds in Banff-Jasper by early arriving people in RVs. Now they use online reservations, but we are still reluctant to go anywhere near the place. Reply to this comment 3 years ago
