Del Norte had three lodging options: The hostel where we stayed yesterday, an old motel that according to multiple source smelled strongly of urine (and yet cost $78!), and the historic Windsor, a fancy-looking “boutique” hotel.

I felt like I needed a brief return to civilization after the cold, muddy ride down the mountain followed by a restless night in the hostel, so I booked the last room at the Windsor. (The hostel was fine, as those kinds of places go, but I hadn’t slept well there, and wanted a more private space, and a bed big enough for both Joy and me to sleep in.)

We couldn’t check in to the hotel until early afternoon, so we hung out at the hostel until after 11:00, when a couple doing the Divide in our direction, Roger and Lauren, rode up. We talked a little about our respective trips, then Joy and I rode down the street to the Windsor and checked in early (the lady at the desk today was much more friendly and helpful than the snooty woman I’d talked to the night before, in whom I’d sensed a disdain for bike tourists who wanted to stay at her fancy hotel.)

The rest of the day passed pleasantly and productively. There was a brand new bike shop in town, just across the street from the hotel, and they were able to get to us immediately. As expected, I needed new brake pads. The shop also sold us new chains for each bike, which I grudgingly went along with. In my experience, every bike shop in the country ALWAYS tries to sell you a new chain every time you take your bike in. (Joy says that I’m wrong about this, and that we did in fact need new chains. OK, then.)

We walked down to a brewpub for lunch, where we met up with Roger and Lauren and another cyclist, and had a good time swapping stories. My mood was lifting.

Later Joy went to dinner at the hotel restaurant, but it seemed a little too pretentious for me, so I walked to the Subway down the street and had a sandwich while Joy ate a steak at the bar in the restaurant.

After that we watched some of the Olympic trials on the television in our room before going to bed. I felt like riding my bicycle again.