September 27, 2022
Day 6 - Natchez, MS (Day's Inn) to Port Gibson (Isabella B&B)
Riding the Natchez Trace
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(NOTE; FWIW, I actually had 2,358 feet of elevation gain today - the original map I posted did not include various trips for eating and post office that I made in Port Isabella at the end of the day - rather than fix this and have to change each subsequent entry in this journal, I'm just leaving this note for my memory)
Statistics, Useful & Otherwise;
Elevation Gained Today; 2,247 ft (see note above) Cumulative; 7,524 ft
Roadkill Seen Today; Possum(2), mouse (1) , unknown (2) Cumulative; Hawk (2), Raccoon (1), Possum (4), mouse (1) , unknown (2)
Found Money Today; $0 Cumulative; $0.28
Lodging Cost Today; $149.80 Cumulative; $496.71
Bad Drivers Today; 0 Cumulative; 2
Dog Chases Today; 0 Cumulative; 2
Confederate Flags Today; 0 Cumulative; 1
Average Speed Today; 9.6mph Cumulative: 10.8mph
Summary of Today's Ride; Nice ride on the Natchez Trace
I'm rolling through Mississippi now and will be doing so for most of the coming week. To say that Mississippi is "deep south" is a huge understatement. Mississippi was the second state to join the confederacy (Alabama was the first). The order of state's joining the Confederacy is a bit confusing to me, since there is a difference in the "admittance" and "ratification" dates - it doesn't really matter anyway. Jefferson Davis, president of the Confederate States of America, was from Mississippi. Mississippi's early economy was built around slave-based agriculture, and half of the nation's millionaires once lived in Natchez. The Civil War brought an end to the old plantation society, but many B&B's along the Natchez Trace (like the one I'm staying in tonight) are built in stately old homes similar to the plantation-style mansions.
Wow, what a difference between my Louisiana experience and today's ride on the Natchez Trace. There was virtually no traffic on the Trace, and what little there was went completely into the other lane to pass me. But let's back up and start at the beginning. I got my wish for Fall weather and was surprised by the chill in the air when I went left my room and walked over to the lobby for breakfast this morning. I actually needed the wind jacket for about half of the morning.
I had plotted a route through residential streets to get from my motel to the start of the Natchez Trace so I could stay off of busy highway 61. The route was very complicated with a lot of turns, so I used the RWGPS app on my phone and let it navigate for me. But it flubbed up and insisted I should turn left at a point where no street existed, so it took a bit of manual routing through the maze before I finally broke out near the start of the Trace. There was dew on the grass and a little mist as it was evaporating, it was just a pleasant morning.
There are historical signs all along the Trace, and I stop to read them all of course. Did you know the Daughters of the American Revolution were a driving force behind the establishment of the Natchez Trace Parkway? I didn't realize it wasn't completed until 2005.
Some of the parkway exhibits and signs are in need of maintenance; perhaps the recent infrastructure bill will allocate some money for that. I passed pullouts where the exhibit sign was totally missing, and some where they were in a state of disrepair.
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Here's a bit of the Old Trace Road.
A car slowed behind me until we were out of a curve and then he commenced to pass me but rolled down the passenger side window. You never know what might happen next so I was a bit apprehensive, but he shouted "I envy you!" as he was passing. So that was nice and it reminded me of just how lucky I am to be able to undertake these adventures.
Most of the route on the Natchez Trace today was at least partially shaded.
The Natchez Trace Parkway is a friendly environment for cyclists and the National Park Service should be commended for their efforts to encourage cycle tourism.
And here's a bit of interesting history.
Every day should include at least a little geology, so here's your geology for the day.
I made it to Port Gibson and located the Isabella B&B. The building is a stately old manor on the main street of town and dates back to the 1880's or thereabout. I cleaned up, made a run to the post office to send a package home, then ordered dinner by phone from a taco truck and walked to pick it up. Later I enjoyed sitting outside with Kelly, the owner, and Devon a friend and business associate of Kelly's, and hearing all about the intricacies of small town politics and the difficulty of getting things done - really, it was quite fascinating. The families that run the town, the issues with race relations, the folks that control the money and the folks that vote on various boards, even petty criminals - all have to be navigated with skill and dealt with fairly in order to get things done. Port Gibson has some very interesting history and it has the potential to become a tourist destination, but only if the various factions can agree to cooperate for their mutual benefit. Kelly, owner of the B&B, is trying to walk that tightrope and balance everyone's needs to help the town advance - and he might just be the guy who can make it happen.
The B&B itself is quite nice, with large bedrooms having their own private baths upstairs and common areas downstairs.
They are actively trying to cater to the cycling tourists, and Kelly hopes to map out some out-and-back or loops for cyclists to ride while visiting.
The Rabbit Foot Minstrels were once headquartered in Port Gibson.
Who were the Rabbit Foot Minstrels? Here you are, for your continuing cultural education. I have to get prepared for a long day tomorrow, good night all...
Today's ride: 50 miles (80 km)
Total: 301 miles (484 km)
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I just switch from "follow roads" to "straight line" when I run into this kind of thing. RWGPS will let you do anything as a straight line. A series of very short straight lines with changing vectors becomes a curve, if needed.
2 years ago
2 years ago