May 13, 2021
Day 8: North Conway, NH to Lincoln, NH
Crawling Up The Kanc
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Climbing Today; 2,702 ft Climbing to Date; 18,670
The alarm went off at 06:30 and I crawled out of bed about 10 minutes later. After eating the measly sack breakfast offered by the Residence Inn, we got on the road about 08:00, and that's a new record for us. We would have gotten off even sooner except for 2 things; 1.) I was still a bit draggy from the viral infection that Doc and I have and just didn't feel like moving fast, and 2.) Doc couldn't locate a charging cable and went through all his gear before finally locating it. His packing system consists of about 25 bags strapped onto the bike, so when he loses something he has a lot of places to look through.
We rolled down to Conway, following the Saco River. Note the mountains in the background that we have to get over today. From Conway we have a 23 mile climb to reach Kancamagus Pass. All we have to do is get there, then it's downhill all the way to Lincoln where we will spend the night.
In Conway there was a covered bridge across the Saco. If there was any doubt that we are in New England, this should do it.
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From Conway we rode a road that ran parallel to the Swift River and Kancamagus Highway. For 7 miles we were passed by only 1 car. The sound of the river tumbling down was quite soothing, and the morning was as perfect as can be. If we weren't both a bit sick still, it would have been a perfect time to camp.
We eventually intersected with the Kancamagus Highway and rode on the shoulder. There was very little traffic; cyclists are warned to expect heavy traffic on this road during the tourist season, but we are a few weeks ahead of the mobs and the roadway had little traffic. The grade was very gentle, and we reached the halfway point on our climb at 10:30. The Kancamagus Highway was so deserted it felt like we were riding on a county road, and the Swift River was ever present as we climbed.
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An occasional gust of unexpected wind was the only thing that interrupted the peaceful morn. We are near Mount Washington, where the craziest weather on earth happens - wind speeds of 213 mph have been recorded there - so I guess a bit of erratic wind shouldn't be unexpected in these parts.
We stopped at a trailhead for a rest break, and a Forest Service employee was doing some maintenance and chatted us up a bit. He was a cyclist and was curious about our bikes and the trip in general. Most folks can't believe a couple of 68 year-olds are traveling cross-country via bicycle. I realize how fortunate we are to have the time and money to be able to do this.
I rode with the telephoto attached all day but saw no wildlife. I'm still looking for Bullwinkle, but he's nowhere to be found.
With 5 miles to go, the grade steepened noticeably. Our pace slowed from about 7 mph to about 4.5 mph, and we labored to keep that speed.
The last 5 miles required an hour and a half of labor, and we finally rolled up to the pass.
Kancamagus Pass was tough, but not as tough as some climbs in the Appalachians. It was more like a climb in the Rockies, gentle grades until the last few miles. I expect much harder climbs in Vermont. Thomas left a comment for us stating that it wasn't so bad after enduring the steep climbs along the Maine coast. I agree - but it was still a bit of work for us old guys.
At a scenic viewpoint near the pass we met a quartet of folks from Maine and enjoyed visiting with them. They confirmed that we had made the right decision by riding through the Maine coastal region prior to the tourist influx - and they reaffirmed my opinion that folks up here are nice folks!
The ride down to Lincoln was a well-earned thrill. I love seeing these signs;
It was a bit after 2:00 when we rolled into Lincoln, and we were hungry. A Mexican restaurant near the road advertised the best burgers in town, and we ate outside and enjoyed a well-earned meal. We found our way to the Holiday Inn Express, and ended up at a brew-pub for dinner. Lincoln is a tourist town, and not long from now I expect that it will be as busy as Branson, MO in the summer. It's nice now, but I'm glad we will be gone before the mobs arrive. I took WAY too much video today, so be forewarned; but I know some of you will appreciate a bit more realistic view of the scenery. It's after 10:00 and I haven't showered yet cause I'm working on this journal; hey, come on now, who loves you if I don't? Update; it's 11:30 now and I'm waiting on Youtube to finish processing the video so I can embed it here. I hope you all are in bed and aren't reading this until tomorrow morning. Good night all...
Today's ride: 41 miles (66 km)
Total: 321 miles (517 km)
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