August 28, 2012
We get to Ieper: 89km on the bike and a challenging train ride
I was too tired after an exhausting day yesterday to write but a good sleep and I am ready to be off again.
The day was cloudy and reasonably cool with a strong wind (head of course) when we set off. On the whole we don’t find cycling in Belgium particularly easy. We don’t have the appropriate maps with the magic numbers on and are relying to a large extent on the GPS. For part of the morning we were riding along a wide path beside the enormous Albert Canal which goes straight into Antwerp. I was surprised at the heavy traffic along the canal. There are many busy cranes along the sides loading and unloading the big barges that ply their trade along the waterway. Many of the loads, such as massive rolls of steel, indicate very heavy industry which surprised me as I didn’t realise what an industralised nation Belgium is. I love seeing how peoples everyday life works and in the moored barges you could see pot plants in the windows of the living quarters and on the top deck often a table and chairs, one had a slide and a small trike so clearly there were children living on some of them. Sometimes there was a small car on board but I have no idea how these could be got off.
After about 10km along the canal we left it as we didn’t want to go through Antwerp, though in hind sight it may have been a good idea to do so. For the most of the morning our route was along fairly busy roads. There are cycle routes beside them but these are very narrow in comparison to either Holland or Germany and as the roads are concrete the surface has lots of bumps, drivers too are not quite as considerate as we have found in the rest of Europe. We passed through many small towns and had our usual coffee in one.
It was rather a relief just after lunch to reach a canal that would take us to Mechelen. We had changed our plans and decided to get a train to Iper to save a couple of days. My reading of CGOAB had paid off I knew from reading Lorna’s journal (Riding Solo in Europe Again) that Mechelen is an amazing train hub and you can get anywhere from there. We crossed the bridge and set off along the canal, after a couple of kms we met a man walking his dog who told us the track ran out on that side after a while and there was no way to cross ithe canal. Back we speed with the wind behind us making us feel very speedy, over the bridge and off we went again. Training cyclists were using the route and made us look as if we were standing still. After a while an older guy on his fancy racing bike came up behind us, saw the New Zealand on Ken’s cycle shirt, told us he had visited New Zealand, where were we going etc,etc. He said “follow me”. Phew !! I have never ridden so fast in my life. About 20km/h against a very strong head wind and a heavily loaded bike. I couldn’t have done it 3 weeks ago. One thing I did do was try and keep him talking as it slowed him down a bit. After about 20 km we had changed canals, crossed bridges and I felt I was either ready for the next Olympics or a Rest Home then we crossed a lock. Our guardian angel left us here, it was just a few more kilometers straight along this to Mechelen. I settled down to my normal pace but Ken had other ideas “Get a move on, off course you can ride faster, it will be 2 weeks before we get there at this rate…..”.
Well we did get to Mechelen and a beautiful city it is. However we decided to head for the station and see what the position was about trains. A train left for Iper in 20 minutes with only one change. Only 25Euros for 2 people and 2bikes. The nice lady at the station said sometimes there is a cycle van but 'just get into any carriage you only have 2 bikes'. We took her advice. Travelling in trains with bikes has not always been an unmixed joy for us and Ken in particular finds it stressful. This journey was to be no different! We partly unloaded our bikes and managed to man handle them up the stairs (perhaps I will train to be a weight lifter), There was very little room and 8 stops between Mechelen and our train change. Ken had to stand by the bikes and move them every time people got on and off or went to the toilet. He did it with grace. The passengers were all charming including the blind man who found the bikes rather a challenge. Just before we reached our change along came Hitler’s handmaiden in the form of the train conductor. I am pleased to report we are not locked up. I had filled in the bicycle tags the wrong way ( just a pity I don’t read Flemish) ,the bikes should not be there, she had seen us putting them in the wrong place when we got on. She had just waited over an hour to come and confront us. Ken ‘politely’ enquired why she didn’t come and tell us what we should do. She answered ‘I have to look after the first class passengers’ By this time we had a big following of amused supporters, including the blind man. By this time we had reached the change we had 8 minutes. Our supporters helped us unload and directed us to the correct train. Oh no we have got on the wrong part of the train again. Surely it will be a POW camp this time. Along comes the conductor. He is charm itself his main worry being the uncomfortable 30minutes we will have before we reach Ieper.
At 5.32pm we struggle off the train and here we are in the beautiful town of Ieper which is packed with people. Some problems getting accommadtion but after 5 full hotels we were comfortably settled and were ready to go to the Last Post ceremony at the Menin Gate.
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Today's ride: 89 km (55 miles)
Total: 1,543 km (958 miles)
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