June 23, 2022
Yellowstone Bypass
Ain't no way I was riding through Yellowstone.
Even though the south half reopened yesterday -
Most of the campgrounds remain closed
which means ridiculous distances to ride and massive traffic.
Not to mention an hours-long line to get in.
I did manage a nice breakfast at the old Island Park Lodge.
Met another cyclist, Don, who was riding the Great Divide.
It was nice talking cycling stuff for a change.
I resign myself to a very different kind of day than yesterday.
Traffic, crowds, traffic, crowds - and litter, too.
I have long noted dog doo at overlooks and rest areas -
But today really got me torqued.
People don't even have the decency to take their dog over to the grass.
They just put him on a leash and open the car or RV door.
There's a good reason park managers want to close parks to people.
Rode over a super easy Targhee Pass and into West Yellowstone.
On my first cross-country tour in 1987 I stayed at the Madison Hostel.
The Madison is still there - a bit frumpy and ageing.
It will likely be replaced by something big and profitable.
The first place I stopped was where Silver Heels used to be.
Greg Huth made my mother a beautiful silver 'L' for her birthday.
He sketched out what he would do. And promised to mail it to her.
My Mom loved it and wore it all the time.
Mom and Greg are both gone now.
Hit the bike shop for a new pump - whew, finally!
Hit the library to do the journal - taking way too much time.
Hit the road north towards Bozeman.
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Turns out the non-Yellowstone option was just as bad.
Very little shoulder and serious traffic wanting to go fast.
This year has more traffic and more aggressive traffic than ever.
It has really convinced me to shorten the tour.
Fortunately, I got to the Bighorn Trailhead and turned off the road.
Technically, US 191 goes through the western edge of Yellowstone N.P.
No one else was there - not even a parked car.
It is the headwaters of the Gallatin River with a nice riverside trail.
And I had it all to myself.
When I returned to the highway the skies were ominous.
Within a few miles the wind shifted to a killer headwind.
You couldn't even pedal forward, so I began scouting for cover.
When the rain started, I saw two government trucks at another trailhead.
One had a big trailer attached which provided 98% protection.
Luck.
Getting back on the road, I had to deal with very wet pavement.
But it was late and the traffic had let up. And gave me plenty of room.
Still it was a wet ride into the campground.
The Gallatin was brown and ferocious now.
And I was a weary boy.
Today's ride: 69 miles (111 km)
Total: 895 miles (1,440 km)
| Rate this entry's writing | Heart | 8 |
| Comment on this entry | Comment | 4 |
I loved this entry. Your photographs are spectacular. I am familiar with this territory as I grew up in Bozeman. You took your life into your own hands riding in the Gallatin Canyon - it is treacherous!
Ron tells me you are home at the moment. Glad you made it safely.
Brad
2 years ago
I rode the Gallatin Canyon back in 1987 and was simply amazed. And, yes, I knew it was going to be tough 35 years later - with all the growth of Big Sky (affectionaly known as Pig Sty) and almost no road improvements over those 35 years. Interesting, though, that there is always space in the canyon for more trophy homes.
I thought I could wing it by riding the 1st half in the evening and the 2nd half super early. South of Big Sky is was tolerable, but even at 6:30a the stretch between Big Sky and Bozeman was non-stop traffic heading south and enough cars heading north who struggled to pass me to be nerve-wracking.
There's the physical energy expended and the psychic energy expended. I got to Bozeman totally drained - a veritable zombie.
Glad you enjoyed it.
2 years ago