June 24, 2022
Death Trap
Usually I feel I am able to cycle most roads.
Usually I can adjust my schedule to fit low traffic times.
"Usually" does not apply to the Gallatin Canyon Road - US 191.
Nobody in their right mind should EVER cycle this road.
The traffic is insane from before sunrise to after sunset.
The speed limit is 60 mph - which few drivers obey.
There are rarely any shoulders and the road edge is poor.
The Montana DOT has done little to nothing to improve safety.
(Other than flashing signs that say "Please Drive Safely".
I got up early and was pack and on the road by 5:30a.
The 3 or 4 miles to Big Sky were o.k.
I stopped for a hot chocolate and biscuit at a c-store.
And then the bottom fell out - probably by 6:30a.
Although the northbound traffic on my side wasn't bad,
Southbound traffic was unrelenting - a solid stream.
Given that there are no shoulders, cars struggled to get by me.
Even though I was riding a beeline on the edge.
Look forward, check mirror, look at the edge, repeat endlessly.
Big Sky is a fancy, upscale community where the workers commute in.
And by the way, the garbage gets shipped out - in big trucks.
In fact, a third of the vehicles were big construction trucks.
Builders are having a heyday in Big Sky.
I understand that truck drivers have schedules to keep,
but I don't appreciate have air horns blasted on full at me.
I probably shouldn't have, but I gave them the universal greeting in return.
The number of crosses on the roadside were sobering - at every curve.
And the number of huge dents in the guardrails were the lucky ones.
There was little time to enjoy the canyon - I loved it back in 1987.
I pulled off into a few campgrounds to restore my nerves -
but my psychic energy was completely drained.
When I got to Gallatin Gateway I turned off onto Gooch Hill Road.
Who cares about the climbing - it was peace and serenity.
Got into Bozeman by 10:30 - adrenaline does wonders.
And I had to stop by Montana Hall on MSU campus.
It has been beautifully restored.
Next up finding Serena, but she had sold the Nova Cafe.
So I caught a meeting and happened to sit next to a Zoom friend.
Small world - fortunate for me - a smile and a laugh.
Shopping, laundry, all many blocks apart, but whatever.
It allowed me to discover an Art Moderne jewel - the Willson School.
Streamedlined elegance, blond wood and brushed aluminum interiors.
It is an architectural treasure than Bozeman has preserved.
But it is essential to understand that Bozeman has the money -
whereas many other towns I have cycled through do not.
Then it was off to my WarmShowers host's house.
Ryan showed me to the guesthouse out back - wow!
It used to be a bed & breakfast. Lovely Victorian in the Brewery District.
We didn't get much chance to talk since they are having a big party on Sat.
Their oldest is turning 5 with 20 kids and 30 parents arriving.
Braver than I am, for sure.
Exhausted, didn't even plug in my chargers,
collapsed and was asleep in no time.
Today's ride: 47 miles (76 km)
Total: 942 miles (1,516 km)
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