Port Townsend - Northwest Passages: Victoria to Portland - CycleBlaze

August 2, 2019

Port Townsend

Rest day!!  A break from the bikes, a break from the blog, a break from the GoPro, even a bit of a break from our beloved constant traveling companion for a few hours.  Not a break from my camera though, since puttering around with it is one of the most restful things I do.  And since I’ve got a few photos I’d like to remember, I’ll throw a few words around them for context.

Today’s ride was minimal: six miles, 200’ of climbing (and that’s rounded up).  Just the short distance from Coupeville to the ferry, and a few hundred yards on the other end to our stay in Port Townsend, the Palace Hotel.

We could have had phad thai last night, if we’d looked around longer. And in a fine old Victorian home! We’ll make note of it for next time.
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Those tractors just keep coming! We almost missed this one, submerged in the blackberry vines.
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An old Allis-Chalmers. The grill and mud flaps are pretty distinctive, but I can’t quite place it.
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The Allis-Chalmers has company rotting away in the weeds.
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It took me awhile to realize what this bird was, standing in the field with its partner. It’s an immature bald eagle. Nice of that tractor to pull up behind to give some contrast.
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Here’s its buddy, standing about thirty feet away. I didn’t realize how dark the young ones are - even their beaks are black (they’ll turn bright yellow at adulthood), which is what confused me at first.
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Descending to Fort Casey and the Keystone ferry dock. The nearest body of water is Crockett Lake.
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Amazing how much there is to see in this short six mile ride. This is the Crockett blockhouse, built to defend the homestead of Col. Walter Crockett from possible Indian attack.
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And yet one more! This one caused us to nearly miss the next ferry because its owner drove up and wanted to chat. He’s very proud of this tractor he inherited, and believes it’s feom the 1930’s. A former biker himself until a stroke put an end to it, he’s ridden the STP many times. His big adventure in life though was a motorcycle ride up the Alcan Highway with his wife many years ago.
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We did make the ferry - not that missing it would have been a big deal, because they leave every 45 minutes. This is the point at Fort Casey.
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We arrived at our hotel at about noon - too early to check in yet of course, but they let us store our bikes and baggage.  We’re staying in the Palace Hotel, a fine old building with a complex history - including some time as a brothel.  This is a theme with the current hotel, and the rooms are all named for former ladies of the establishment.  We’re quartered in Miss Mona’s Room, which has a nice sound to it.

We walked over to Better Living Through Coffee, a nearby seaside coffee shop, and shared a light lunch before going our separate ways.  Rachael took an 8 mile hike (8.2 miles to be precise, she would like me to note), and I didn’t.  It’s a rest day, so I rested.

Port Townsend is a fascinating place to spend the afternoon, the kind of place you can instantly fall in love with and imagine moving to some day.    It has a fine collection of old Victorian buildings that have survived from the town’s heyday when it was viewed as a candidate for one of the most important ports on the Pacific Coast.  That didn’t come to pass, and instead they largely stood abandoned for decades until the town started gaining a new lease on life.  

OK.  Back to my break.

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The James & Hastings Building, built in 1889. Our hotel is the Captain Tibbal’s Building, built the same year and immediately across the street. Our window in Miss Mona’s room faces on this wonderful building.
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Port Townsend is a great place for people watching.
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The Hastings Building (not to be confused with the James & Hastings Building across the street), also built in 1889. Behind it is the Eisenbeis Building, built in (you guessed it) 1889.
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The Pioneer Building, also from 1889. Its incredible - it’s as if the whole town sprang up virtually overnight.
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The Haller Fountain is a 1992 recasting of the original, which was abused and badly damaged over the years (it was used as a flower planter, and for trained trout shows). A statue of Galatea, it was forged in New York and planted here in 1905. So what tricks can trained trout perform, anyway?
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The card players. Look at her feet!
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Jen RahnThat's some youthful flexibility!

Hope she was able to straighten her legs after the game.
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5 years ago
Scott AndersonTo Jen RahnNo problem at all. She hopped down right after this and ran off effortlessly. It’s great to be young.
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5 years ago
The Rose Theater opened as a vaudeville house in 1907. It’s still alive today, with its new life as an independent film center.
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She’s incensed because that’s her hat, and she wants it back. Now!
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The tarot reader
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The Fred Lewis Building, also born in the class of 1889, is getting some repairs. I hope they include replacing the letter I that’s missing from its name.
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For some reason this makes me think of an Edward Hopper painting.
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The old clam cannery.
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The fire bell tower, built in 1890, claims to be the oldest remaining wooden fire bell tower in the country.
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Ride stats today: 6 miles, 200’; for the tour: 642 miles, 29,600’

Today's ride: 6 miles (10 km)
Total: 642 miles (1,033 km)

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