July 31, 2019
Mukilteo: worst day of the tour ride
We’re at the midpoint of the journey this morning. Looking back, we have enjoyed an especially fine tour so far. The weather has been incredible, with no precipitation at all, moderate winds, and generally mild temperatures. Exceptional scenery, few issues with traffic, and even some fine hospitality and friendship along the way. As good as it gets.
Looking ahead, the weather forecast couldn’t be better for the coming two weeks, even out west on the wet side of the Olympic Peninsula. There is rain just showing up two weeks out, several days after we leave the premises. Far better than we had reason to hope for. I’m starting to resent the fact that I’m carrying this unneeded rain gear. I hate carrying along baggage that I don’t need.
Today’s ride begins well. We enjoy a good breakfast at our B&B, which graciously sets an early table for us so we can get on the road at a reasonable hour. We also enjoy chatting with the new owners, who have just moved here from Indiana this summer to start their new post-retirement life. Surprisingly, the husband has a professional background similar to mine, as an old-timer from the early years of the IT profession. It’s been a long time since I’ve heard anyone talking about database design and fifth normal form!
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We have one of our longer rides ahead of us, so we set out soon after breakfast. The first ten miles are a continuation of the wonderful riding we enjoyed yesterday. We cross the plane, broad Skagit Delta, not seeing even a ripple in the road for the next hour. I think our GPS registered 15 feet of elevation gain by the time we came to the southern rim of the flats.
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5 years ago
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At Conway we cross the other branch of the Skagit, leave the delta, and start seeing some contour in the ride. We also come to the end of the quiet roads. For most of the rest of the day we’ll be on busier roads and minor highways, so we’re glad to forestall that a bit by taking the unpaved dike trail south of Conway for another mile or two. It’s pretty, quiet, and not a bad surface - we’d be happy to bike like this for a good stretch of the day, really.
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Unfortunately, we only get about a mile and a half of it before the trail ends. It’s a hard stop, at the train line. Across the tracks are a deep culvert and beyond that our highway, separated by a low barrier. It looks like we’ll have to just backtrack and lengthen our already long day, but first I scout around a bit. I find an overgrown path through the blackberries, on the other side of a short train trestle. There’s a walkway on the side of the trestle and it all looks manageable, so we go for it. At the end, we team up to carry our bikes over the brambles to avoid flattening and then heft them over the railings onto the highway.
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So, this ends the good riding for the day. The remaining 42 miles frankly stink. I don’t think there’s any part of this stretch that we’d care to repeat. Most of it is on a shoulderless, narrow two lane road that carries a steady load of traffic. Not dangerous, but hardly relaxing either because you have to stay focused, keep an ear tuned for passing cars, and keep to your lane. The only upside is that it helps us keep up a good pace.
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So this was the bad part of the ride. The ugly part came immediately after leaving Marysville, when we came to the Snohomish River. From this direction the only crossing is on very busy Highway 529; and it’s actually four crossings, because the mouth of the Snohomish is braided and broken up by small islands. The last of these is a quite long bridge, fortunately with a separated sidewalk - it would be suicidal to bike with the heavy, racing traffic. But the sidewalk is narrow, the railings on both sides are too low for comfort, and the water is a very long ways down. The scariest bridge crossing we’ve experienced in years.
Finally, we make it across, pass under the Welcome to Everett sign, and turn off the highway onto the bayside road. Much better, and almost nice really; except that I’m almost blinded by a blackberry vine hanging down to helmet level that I didn’t see coming (you can see me flinch from this in the video).
Overall, not the best day of the tour. Quite the opposite, in fact.
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5 years ago
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The rest of the ride was OK, following the bay and skirting the city itself. We rode the sidewalk the whole way, stopping a few times to look out across the bay. Everett is a city with a quite grey past (it’s nickname is Mill Town, so there’s a hint), but like so many places they’re working hard at cleaning up their act. There are attractive spots along the way to sit on a bench and look across the broad bay, filled with rotting pilings and other vestiges of the city’s industrial heritage.
It’s a relief to arrive at Mukilteo at the end of the day. We arrive just past 4, as usual. It was a longer ride, but we made good time since there was no reason to stop for most of the way.
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Ride stats today: 54 miles, 2,200’; for the tour: 595 miles, 26,500’
Today's ride: 54 miles (87 km)
Total: 595 miles (958 km)
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Here's to a better day tomorrow!
5 years ago
5 years ago