April 29, 2022 - Praia do Pedrógāo to Leiria - Return to Cycle-OPOLIS (Tour 22) - 2022 🇵🇹

April 29, 2022

April 29, 2022 - Praia do Pedrógāo to Leiria

Threads of time intertwined... with 2003

Hotel Dom Dinis

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Breakfast this morning was served at 730 am and when I went downstairs I saw that there was only one place setting in the entire breakfast room. I was the only guest in this entire hotel. I apologized to the woman who was the same one from yesterday - that she could have told me that I was the only one and I could have waited til later if she wanted to come in later.

Breakfast was really tasty today with the breads particularly good and the kiwi and grapes yummy, and a huge glass of freshly squeezed orange juice. Delicious.

Being so early to eat, I was out and rolling a bit before 830 am so had some nice morning sun. My route headed straight south of town along the sand dunes in a straight route that went to the horizon after each little climb I did. The ocean was just over the dunes and I could usually hear the breakers on the beaches.

Today's route along EV1 was another straight-as-an-arrow road along the dunes beside the coast. I could hear the waves over to my right most of the time. -- near Praia do Pedraogao, Portugal

After about half of my distance, the route turned ninety degrees to the east (inland) to head toward Leiria. Right away there were a number of long shallow climbs after I went over successive dunes. Throughout all of this portion of the ride I pretty well had everywhere to myself. There were cars every now and then, but hardly to speak of.

Eventually I came to an N series road which are larger and more-used roads. There was traffic going fairly quickly but not overly much and I had a large margin to ride along for the most part. What I did notice were the numerous tree stumps as I rode through the rolling fields - obviously this area had been a forest of huge trees but they must all have been harvested. As I approached Marinha Grande there were trees again, but it was sad that no trees were left along the road for such a long stretch.

Though a very different experience to be riding away from the EV1 route, it was nice to be going through towns and villages every few kilometres. As much as it is nice to have a deserted country road to myself, it was great to see the old and new homes, businesses, little cultivated plots... and people.

There was a slight breeze blowing but for the most part it was either from the east or north and I was generally headed southeast so occasionally I had a breeze in my face, but it was not strong. The sun was out in full force so I stopped a few times to make sure I had suntan lotion on. It was sunny and hot out - my coat had been removed within fifteen minutes of starting out today.

The terrain around Leiria is fairly hilly, so as I approached I had a number of climbs, and then a great big descent once I was almost to the city. As I recalled from 2003, there was a LONG climb to get back out of the area and toward the coast. Something to be excited about for tomorrow, I guess!

As I approached the city, I could see Leiria castle keeping watch over the city. -- Leiria, Portugal

I came around one corner and there was Leiria Castle up on its mountain just like I remembered it. Imposing and beautiful. Then the GPS led me through tiny back alleys and streets to get me closer to my hotel. At one time it just froze, maybe because the walls were too close, so I had to reset it before continuing.

I came to one small square and then emerged into... the central city park where I remember sitting in December 2003, listening to 'White Christmas' playing on the speakers that were hung from the palm trees. It was not white in Leiria that day, though I remember it being damp and cool.

It was still early, so I pulled up to one of the park benches and just looked around, and took pics of the park and the castle.

After a long downhill to get close to the city and lots of meandering, I was in the main town square below the castle and at the city sign coloured blue and yellow in honour of Ukraine. -- Leiria, Portugal

There were quite a few people around, specifically a lot of youngish people, many of whom were pulling suitcases. This is a university town so I am thinking either their school year is just finishing, or, they are heading home (or somewhere?) for the May 1 weekend. Again, it was a bit of a culture shock to see so many people around after being in basically deserted towns lately. With this being said, there didn't seem to be any crowds of tourists about which I would think might happen in the summer.

After lunch I wandered some of the really old winding back streets. -- Leiria, Portugal

After a while I walked acrss the bridge and up to my hotel. I went to the same door as before to find they had moved things around and now used the front door again. My room was not ready, but they let me put my bike and bags into a locked closet across from the lobby and I headed back out in search of lunch.

I had come across one Shawarma place when I first arrived but the sign in the window said it was temporarily closed and would re-opn in six to nine months. So, I headed to another one a few blocks west where there was another place and I soon ordered a shawarma platter. After having eaten it many times at home, I was looking forward to it, but it tasted like they put ketchup on it. It was the worst I have ever had, definitely the worst meal I have had on this trip, so I was quite disappointed. Fortunately the pineapple Sumol was as tasty as ever. I can't believe I even like it, but it is really good. Not like the sickly sweetness of pineapple juice at home.

From the main park looking up to Leiria Castle. Leiria, Portugal

After such a long and white bunch of monthgs, I just can't get enough of leafy trees and the aroma of orange blossoms. -- Leiria, Portugal

Morebacks streets near the old centre. -- Leiria, Portugal

More greenery and beauty of this city. -- Leiria, Portugal

After that crappy lunch I returned to the big park and just sat and enjoyed the day before returning to my hotel to actually check in and get my room. I don't remember the room at all from last time, but is it ever nice this time! The view is pretty and I can look up and out at various old historical buildings.

I foresee a slight bit of reading now followed by some fairly certain napping time after which I am not sure what I'll do, but am thinking to return to the park at dusk since it is so pretty.

The view out the window and to the left (east) from my hotel room. -- Leiria, Portugal

Today's ride: 36 km (22 miles)
Total: 256 km (159 miles)

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