Navarrenx to Dax

October 3, 2024

At this point in the tour, I've developed a distinct smattering of freckles across my upper cheeks and nose. Today, I'm off to Dax. In the morning, I head out with Christophe and Nathalie. Nathalie turns left, and Christophe turns right towards Orthez. He gives me a final wave in his rearview mirror. It's a chilly morning, but at least it's dry-ish.

I pass Salies-de Béarn, where there's a morning market going on. I leave my bike leaned up against a building under a merchant's watchful eye. A few people ask me about my trip as I'm clip-clopping along in these cleats.

I pay 6 euros for this slice of Basque cheesecake -- my first! It's filled with a sour cherry jam. It's baked as a big sheet cake, and they'll cut you off as much as you like. Then I pick up three saucissons, and the vendor slices me half of each so I can enjoy it during the day. I get hazelnut, figs, and pepper. Hungry for something salty after that cheesecake, I meet a Vietnamese farmer and a retired English nurse who are selling popcorn chicken. They recommend that I visit the salt factory. Is it just me, I feel like people think I'm shoplifting if I leave without buying anything, so I get fleur de sel. It's too early on my trip to be buying souvenirs, but I'll find something to do with it.

Then, off again, through a small smattering of rain, and I'm in Dax before lunch! My hotel lets me check in early at noon. There are a lot of older people here wandering around in bathrobes. After a shower, I get out to explore. After the third store with a prominent sauna hat display, I realize this is a thermal spa town!

Some cool Art Deco sights! I spend the afternoon window shopping the bevy of thrift stores and planning my route to the coast at a cafe.

Today's ride: 57 km (35 miles)
Total: 1,360 km (845 miles)

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