Col du Soulor et d'Aubisque and an evening in Lourdes

September 30, 2024

Yesterday was a rest day. I dropped my bike off at the shop next door. My chain and bottom bracket bearings were replaced. They also charged up my Di2. I fitted my new cleats. I washed my kit. I looked for new gloves (no dice). Then I spent all day in bed watching Nobody Wants This on Netflix. I forgot how stupidly attractive Adam Brody was. I had such a crush watching him in The OC in elementary school. Rotting in bed with English media is apparently my go-to rest activity. Unlike my first rest day in Carpentras, I feel zero regret about not going out.

But today! Today is an exciting day. I have a map of my options, and I want to try out Col d'Aubisque. It's supposed to be beautiful and that's really all I know about it. I feel nervous before starting -- new cleats (I hope I copied my position perfectly) and no gloves. I've always ridden in gloves.

It's a hot day. On the first climb out of Lourdes towards the mountains, my Wahoo is already showing 31C! The views, even on the bike path, are verdant and gorgeous. Some cafes are already closed for the season. I'll be fine though; I grabbed four sugar packets from the kitchenette for emergencies. Right as the greenway ends, there's an Aldi. Wow, I truly am blessed. I get a bunch of pastries. I eat half in the parking lot, and the other half I stuff into my pockets. Before long, I'm at the Col du Soulor, which I have to climb to hit the saddle to Col d'Aubisque.

This seems like the perfect place to recite a line from Mean Girls (2004). So you agree, you think you're really pretty.

See Her Out by Francis and the Lights is my musical accompaniment. On repeat.

When I get to the top of Col du Soulor, there's a cafe on the right. I meet four Brits. They did Col d'Aubisque last night as a sunset ride and said it was amazing. One in their party is injured, so he's their support driver and photographer. What an arrangement! One day, I'd love to do a tour with friends, say four of us, and we rotate driving duty. No need to haul luggage, the ability to do sunset rides, and photography! I settle in for a burger and coca. The burger was disappointing but the fries were good. An errant thought: I would kill for a The Figs Is In (fig and bacon jam, goat cheese, sauteed onions) from Bad Apple in Chicago right about now. A 10/10 no notes burger.

I can only finish about half of this burger, so I pay and head to the saddle. It's already 3:30pm, so I need to keep an eye on the time.

This saddle from Soulor to Aubisque is elite. Cows and donkeys by the roadside. A little descent then balcony roads with overhang. It was pure bliss.

And surprisingly, not that many people! I come across four cyclists in the saddle. Maybe everyone's over at the Tourmalet. I start to feel chilly, and check the time. Ope, I should really head back. It's a gorgeous descent, and it's only at the bottom that I remember I did it with no gloves.

A stop at the Aldi again, where I stuff my jersey pockets with groceries (hazelnut mini sausages are now in my regular rotation). I pour a pint of blueberries into my empty water bottle. A few more km on the greenway back to the hotel!

After an amazing ride to Col du Soulor and Col d'Aubisque, I gobble down some food and head out to town. There's a pilgrimage starting in a few days, and plenty of new arrivals at the hotel. I notice people from Francophone Africa, the Philippines, Vietnam, and loads of Spaniards. I walk to the Basilica of the Rosary around 7:30pm, passing many stores selling candles and torches.

Things pick up as it gets darker and darker. There's a procession and a choir rehearsal, all outside. I line up to touch the rock of the grotto and drink some Lourdes water. I see pilgrims fill up bottles and jugs from the taps encircling the church. The water tasted normal.

To be in Lourdes, with so many ill people hoping for a miracle, and knowing that there are strong healthy cyclists heading out to the Pyrenees every day out of the same hotels... It's like a tale of two cities. It feels very special to be here. I'm awestruck by the power of religion to build such incredible monuments. I think of my aunt, who is terminally ill with cancer. And even though I'm not religious, I hope for a little miracle for her too.

Today's ride: 73 km (45 miles)
Total: 1,222 km (759 miles)

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