Day 78: Benicarlo to Torreblanca - Grampies Grand Return to France: Summer 2024 - CycleBlaze

October 26, 2024

Day 78: Benicarlo to Torreblanca

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Our wayward reception lady did show up for the promised 8 a.m. breakfast service, and as what still looked like the only clients we had a reasonable amount to eat. We also benefited from our hotel being right next to a grocery, so we dropped in. With tomorrow being Sunday we wanted to make sure of lots of backup supplies in the food bag.  Mercadona opened at 9, 5 minutes from when we got there. Dodie looked at that, and for some reason stomped over to the nearby Lidl. Lidl in fact also opened at 9, but it took us 5 minutes to complete the transfer, so fine. Dodie reported on coming out that this Lidl in fact had a good selection, and yes, some good salads and puddings and stuff did get stashed away.

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Benicarlo is on a flat bit of land by the sea, so we began the day's ride in the best possible circumstances.

Nice bike way in Benicarlo. The man in red is probably off the track to avoid me, flailing about with the camera.
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Dodie had felt Lidl to be weak on fruits, so we were interested as we passed this independent store. We decided we were ok, though, still having some scavenged oranges and a couple of other fruits in stock.

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Their wall mural was attractive, though.
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Benicarlo's bike lane now became the object of some consternation. The wide area of pavers included a painted bike width lane, but that lane seemed to be designated no bikes. And this is despite a 10 kph speed limit also painted in. Yet all the effort with the paint did include sets of footprints, some straddling the "bike" lane. What a set of mixed signals! Not to mention that the rather chubby footprints did not seem to represent anyone that could do a 10 k in an hour, especially not without runners! So many thoughts needed, just to pedal down the way!

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Karen PoretAnd, the center brown tiles looks like a shuffleboard 😬
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3 weeks ago

The Benicarlo waterfront had lots of hotels, but one caught Dodie's eye. She liked the turquoise colour:

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Gregory GarceauI like the turquoise too.
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3 weeks ago

Now in the near distance appeared Peniscola, which is a peninsula jutting out over the sea, 12 km south of Benicarlo. Peniscola gives the same impression as Mont St Michel. It houses more of a castle or fort  than a church. As as fort it started as a Moorish stronghold around the 11th century.  But in 1229 it was transferred to the control of James I of Aragon, after he forced the Moors to cede several castles in the region. James II of Aragon then gave the place to the Knights Templar, in 1294. The Templars demolished what was there and rebuilt, completing work in 1307.

Peniscola comes into view, along the promenade.
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It is very striking, with the white buildings and the castle.
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The white buildings continue along the peninsula.
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A closer look at the castle
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and at the nearby buildings
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The last time we were here, we told ourselves that we should go into Peniscola for a close look. We know this because we cheated and re-read our blog last night. But that blog also contained a serious warning. Beyond Peniscola would lie for us a brutal journey up headlands on unpaved road. We decided that we had better sweep on by, and plan to actual stay in Peniscola the next time around.

To go into Peniscola we would have stayed straight. But we veered right.
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One last look at the fort.
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and back along the sweep of the Benicarlo bay.
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Now in behind Benicarlo, we could see housing developments on nearby hills. These, and especially one, were quite dense and crazy and white. We know this type of thing from other travels in Spain, where we call them sugar cube houses, but this was our first encounter with them this trip.

This is sort of variable in design, and spaced out.
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But this is rather nuts.
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Karen PoretHope the tenants know where they actually reside …in the dark and during the day!.. Street names are probably the same, too.. “Main St, Main Avenue, Main Court, etc..” What do you say?
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3 weeks ago
Steve Miller/GrampiesTo Karen PoretHopefully they all know how to get about. Actually, don't see any streets or walkways so how do they get around? We probably just can't see the details, it was far away up the hill. Still......
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3 weeks ago

Very quickly after Peniscola the road began to rise. But we knew that was coming.

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The road quickly decided to climb this hillside. See the red shirt of a walker up there?
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The sign claims 6%, but we think it was steeper than that. The road condition is also starting to slip (literally).
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Ok, so it's a bit of a push.
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Peniscola is visible as we climb.
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Ah, now I would call that poor condition.
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The road continues up and around by a cliff
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Looking at the cliff from the down side.
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You can see in this photo that cars can make it up here. We ran into a local cyclist, with a mountain bike. He was unloaded and had big cushiony tires, and gearing with one tiny wheel in the front and 12 on a rear cluster, ranging up to seriously huge. He was interested in our trip, and could sympathize with how we might struggle on this road, though he comes out here just for entertainment. Can't quite see it in the photo but Dodie and this serious cyclist both had Giro helmets.
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There is this one watch tower along the way.
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Coming down past the tower, we are on our way to the sea level, visible up ahead. The road is concreted here because of the slope, but that will not last at all long.
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The tower
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Karen PoretWith a “face” in the center!
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3 weeks ago
The crest on the tower, says 1554.
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We are going down there next.
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Dodie seriously needs to make that next right turn. That is why she is walking!
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It is a gorgeous area.
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Looking back to the tower, we see that the hillside is like a rock garden. We enjoyed seeing and smelling Rosemary and Thyme.
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Karen PoretNot parsley and sage, as well?
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3 weeks ago
Steve Miller/GrampiesTo Karen PoretThe song kept running through my head after we passed the area.
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3 weeks ago
These guys are intent on pedalling up.
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While Dodie is sure to make another turn.
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We are getting there.
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Lovely sea and rocks!
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Just because we made it up and down this one obstacle did not mean we had mastered the ride. Far from it. Now we had a dozen kilometres of almost always unrideable road. We pushed for almost the whole thing! From time to time we thought this was ridiculous, and got on the bikes. But soon enough it was clear that the large rocks really were going to throw us. We kept trying though. It was truly exhausting, and in the end this 15 km stretch of road took us 5 hours!

When you pass this, Dodie, you still have 5 hours to go before reaching pavement! The local authorities tout this as an ideal BTT route. (BTT is mountain bike. EV 8 likes this route, but is supposed to be for touring bikes. Ha!)
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Finally and at last we reached Alcossebre, and this wonderful bike track.
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But wait!
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This was an area (one of several to come) where water was flowing in from the sea. We had been playing tag with a fellow from Barcelona, heading for Almeria, and with his dog in tow. We let him go through this one first! It was just fine on the edges, though rather deep in the middle.
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Dodie remains skeptical.
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Down the way, the man from Barcelona appeared to have a flat. After making sure that he did have a pump and tools, we left him to it, since we quite a way still to go.
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Our destination was Torreblanca, and we were really tired by the time we almost reached it. So that is when a further barrier or challenge popped up. We saw that "vecinos" might have access. So that's how we defined ourselves! Notice also the ominous clouds. It will be a good idea to reach shelter sooner than later!
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We decided to head down the road and to see how bad the blockage might be. Well, ok, they had those basically impassable fence sections, set into concrete blocks, and wired together.  But that description, for Grampies, are only the starting conditions. More important is how are the parts wired together? What gauge wire had they used, and how much?

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Clearly, they had skimped on the wire gauge!
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And now, at the other end, more wire meets its fate. This is not to say the Grampies are totally destructive scofflaws. Here is one mostly repairing the damage to the blockade. But the repair can not be too perfect - we are planning to bust through here again tomorrow!
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All this gave us access to Torre Blanca. This is what the town looked like.
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The mural on the building.
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We reached the hotel just as the clouds opened up. Really perfect timing!
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This is the view from our balcony.
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It's a little hard to tell, but it's really raining now!
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Some time later, it's all over. See:

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And a bunch of White Wagtails show up on the solar panels:

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We cheated again and read what Grampies 2023 had to say about where we are going tomorrow. They loved it! Hurray!

Today's ride: 41 km (25 miles)
Total: 3,899 km (2,421 miles)

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