Day 76: Amposta -Ebro Delta Birding

October 24, 2024

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Amposta lies at the beginning of the delta of the Ebro River. The delta is one of the largest wetland areas in the Mediterranean. Amposta in the 4th century was a seaport, but now it is 24 km from Amposta to the sea, indicating the vast amount of sediment deposited. Almost all the area of the delta is currently devoted to rice cultivation, with a certain amount of other agriculture. All that rice, the tilling of the soil that comes from the cultivation, and the flooded areas good for crustaceans to grow, have supported a huge bird population. There are great flocks of them, especially on newly cultivated plots or paddies, making this a true birding paradise.

The delta has kms of irrigation canals. Here an Archimedes screw transfers water from one place to another.

We have been round the delta a couple of times now, but we always suspected that we were not getting the full experience, for not knowing what to look for or where. So this time we booked in with Al Henderson, a Brit from Yorkshire who has lived here for 20 years. Al runs a bird tour operation, when not taking people fishing up the river. Sure enough, Al's knowledge of the local birds and where to find them was superb. He was a patient teacher, both about the birds and the local area, and on how best to set and use the camera. Most remarkable to me was something we have also seen in the few other birding guides we have been with: the ability to spot birds at insane distances, to identify anything and everything, and to go to the places where the birds are to be found. Of course this is not magic, or even necessarily super keen eyesight. Rather Al, from years of experience, has a good idea of what birds typically hang out where - down to which grove of trees or even which clump of bushes. So when Al, for example, sets up the scope and says look in here, to see a Kingfisher, at an otherwise impossible distance, it's because he already knows that Kingfishers like that bush. But it's no less amazing that he knows so many birds and so many of their favourite spots hereabouts!

My birthday is long past, but what a treat to be brought out here!

Al was an excellent guide and teacher. Steve is squinting to see what he is talking about.

The mountains behind the delta, are called the Montsia.

Al brought us not so much to hides as to viewing platforms.

Once up on a platform, I would scan the area and usually see not much. Al would then set up the scope, and magically (at an impossible distance) I would see what he had been looking at. He would then identify everything out there. Typically I would then fire up my camera and try to see these birds in it. The camera would sort of show them, but the clarity was a fraction of what that scope could do.

An exception was flamingos, big and pink enough for even me to pick up!

Al and I took a comfortable seat in the sand, to look at something, while Dodie followed, on the gentle sand embankment we were using.

Suddenly we heard a "quacking" or calling that was not birds, and we looked around in puzzlement. There was nothing to be seen, but included in that was no Dodie. It took only a second to realize that the calling was coming from Dodie, somewhere in the sand and grass hummocks. We scrambled to our feet and discovered that Dodie had done a face plant, tripping on the sandy hummocks.

Dodie describes the gymnastic action as being like "Janet" in "The Good Place" when somebody presses her reboot button. She falls to her knees, and it's a face plant. In this case, Dodie was bleeding from nose and cheek, but she was very brave. She did not want to wreck the outing, but as I write this some hours later, her head hurts and she is a bit shocky. She'll be fine, though.

Ok, which one of you hummocks is to blame?

We were encouraged by the appearance of a gaggle of cyclists - kids on a school trip. We love seeing all cyclists.

And the calming sight of a fishing boat. Probably going for sea bass, says Al.

A scene from the Ebro, with the mountains behind.

Yesterday we were fortunate to run into fields that were stuffed with Ibis, Gulls, Herons, and Egrets of all types. Today we of course saw all of these, but also some that are smaller and not quite so common. Here is a selection of our shots from today.

24240 Audouin's Gull (previously very endangered, has made a come back)

Wow, what a fabulous day, including seven species that were new to us, and over thirty bird species in total.

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Karen PoretHope Dodie feels better..and not sore!
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1 month ago

Steve Miller/GrampiesTo Karen PoretThanks, Karen. It's mostly hurt pride and a few abrasions.
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1 month ago

Suzanne GibsonWhat a fantastic day - except for Dodie's face plant. Hope she's okay now!
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1 month ago

Steve Miller/GrampiesTo Suzanne GibsonJust a bit of scratches and bruising. Oh, and slightly crumpled glasses, but the optometrist can easily fix that when we get home
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1 month ago