Day 73: Calafell to Tarragona - Grampies Grand Return to France: Summer 2024 - CycleBlaze

October 21, 2024

Day 73: Calafell to Tarragona

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Our little square at the top of Calafell village was just waking up as we left it to descend through the narrow streets.

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A big feature in the photos below is the lack of any cars. That is something I love about little villages. It is so amazingly restful not to have to be dodging traffic all the time!

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We arrived at the sea in time for a bit of a sunrise.

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And here - almost no people, also very restful!

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Karen PoretOh, oh..dog off leash..
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Now we set off along the waterfront promenade - did I mention how restful this all was?

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The sea was very calm along here.
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Scott AndersonI’d love to see Tarragona some day. If you come back, try to time it so you’re here for La Tomatina though: https://www.latomatinatours.com/. Looks like great fun.
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Steve Miller/GrampiesTo Scott AndersonLa Tomatina seems to be near Valencia, so one could come and then go South, never reaching Tarragona. That said, the tomato fight idea did not seem to win favor here with us. Interestingly the tomatoes are said in the article to come from Extremadura, not Almeria.
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We arrived at a concrete bunker, that had been painted in a replica of Picasso's Guernica mural (Guernica is a painting by Pablo Picasso , painted in Paris  between May and June 1937, whose title alludes to the bombing of Guernica (a town east of Bilbao) , which occurred on April 26 of that year (1937), during the Spanish Civil War .)

The bunker
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We had trouble understanding who was bombing who.
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This must be a Republican recruitment poster:

On the fronts On the coasts On the borders In the rear... The carabinieri is a heroic, disciplined and loyal soldier ANTIFASCISTS JOIN THE BRIGADES OF THE GLORIOUS CORPS
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The seaside ride continues:

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Some nice houses along the way.
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Often while cycling we come across the home or former home of someone who is obviously very important locally, but that we of course have never heard of. Here below is an example, the former home of painter Santiago Elias. The two panels below tell all about him, outside the house. He was into mosaics, and did a mosaic self-portrait. Also, on the house is a mosaic Neptune image.

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Here is my photo of the Neptune. I am confused, because the info panels also had a photo. While the image may be the same, the house seems to differ. Puzzling.

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Lantana is a colourful shrub that we of course do not see at home. Here is a (big) sample of it in the middle of a roundabout.

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Karen PoretI have this vibrant plant in purple! It also has a distinct smell; pleasant and not overpowering..
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Steve Miller/GrampiesTo Karen PoretWe are maybe just a bit too far north for it to really thrive. 😕
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We continued along the coast, and came to the town of Torredembarra. We just sort of noticed it because of its ancient looking gate or arch. That had us stopping to read the nearby info panels, some of which you could look at below, if you like.

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The main attractions of Torredembarra are further listed on a sign, and comprise the old centre, city hall, a church, and a tower. That's all quite standard, but we ended up finding the place very pleasant indeed.

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Looking in to the town.
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Let's go for it.
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The church, built between the 15th and 18th centuries.
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Jacquie GaudetNew jacket? Looks great!
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Steve Miller/GrampiesTo Jacquie GaudetThis is my tshirt, pinkish red, with a sun proof yellow bolero over top. Never noticed before but it does look a bit like a jacket.
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and the tower. This is basically from the 13th century, but has been modified over time. It played a role in the War of Spanish Succession, in 1713.
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One more info panel to possibly look at. This covers a subject of great local importance, that was news to us. It seems that in the late 1700's, many people left from the coastal towns here and went to the West Indies (the Caribbean). They seemed to make their fortunes there, and then came back, forming a wealthy local class, and known as Los Indianos.

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In Torredembarra. The banner says no to male violence.
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Torredembarra
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We came upon this small bakery, and got a sort of cinnamon bun that was both flaky and chewy, unique and good!

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Nearby at a fountain, another unfortunate dragon gets speared.

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Torredembarra became more and more fun as we got deeper into the town, proceeding along the main pedestrian street.

There were squares with the necessary restaurant seating.
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and quite a few people out walking
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Many of the houses were ones established or enlarged by those Indiano folks, and each featured an info panel with its detailed history.

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A peek inside one of the houses
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I also noticed in more than one fruit store, those peaches that I had seen earlier.

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Plus fun things like heritage style tomatoes.
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The peaches were really nice, but I could not find any that were fully ripe. Need to come back in a few days!
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Something that I noticed in the streets of this town, were many seniors being accompanied and helped along by their middle aged children. It seems a general indicator of a caring society.

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We found a shady bench (quite rare - most were sunny) and ate lunch, before leaving town. We only looked over at the next town, Altafulla. It had an old castle, but was up a hill, so we swept on by.

Altafulla town
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In one sense the fun was over, because the route now followed N-340, a fairly high speed road, though it did have a shoulder. We got an early break from cycling this road, as we arrived at what is called the Tower of the Scipios.

The Tower of the Scipios is a funerary tower from the 1st century, containing urns of ashes. It stands on what is called the Via Augusta, which is the Roman road from Rome to Cadiz.
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The much eroded figures on the front are the Scipios. Whoever they were, they are apparently not the people stored inside the tower/
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We returned to the N-340, which reminded me of some kind of cycling school exercise. The white line marking the shoulder is impregnated with rumble bumps, while down the middle of the shoulder runs a line of cat eyes. This leaves only narrow strips for cycling, and on the extreme right is a ditch. It's a tiring thing to focus and stay on. Or, one could watch the rear view mirror carefully and take the lane. But watching for the oncoming speeding cars is pretty tiring too.
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The sign confirms the Via Augusta, for any Romans still around who are wondering if they are on the right way to Cadiz.
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The bay by Tarragona is good for swimming
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This ramp is needed to get people over the railway tracks that dominate the water frontage.
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The tracks have the prime real estate.
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Mounting the ramp toward the town.
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These buildings on the cliff edge have a great water view.
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Our hotel, the Lauria, is in a old mansion on the new Rambla.
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It has old mansion features, like this staircase.
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Karen PoretWhich, we hope you did NOT have to carry your bicycles up!
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Steve Miller/GrampiesTo Karen PoretNo, no. The bikes were happily tucked away in an underground garage, and we were happily tucked away in a room reached by an elevator.
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We dumped our stuff in the  hotel and went for a stroll.  Outside, at the head of the rambla is a statue of Roger de Lauria, a famous Spanish admiral, born in 1245.

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Looking down from the Rambla we see the quite well preserved ampitheatre.
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The Monk's Tower - a medieval fortification built into the Roman remains. The pink building is the Church of St Augustin.
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The Monk's tower, integrated with a Roman wall.
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Part of the Roman circus. This race ring was really big, and when on our walk we thought we were well away from it, there were more remnants.
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A wall mural shows part of what the circus was like.
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The streets of the extensive old town are universally picturesque.
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Plaza de Fuente - fountain square - has city hall at one end, and is the centre of town.
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We are walking toward the cathedral. I liked this sort of corner building.
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It's uphill to the cathedral. I was thinking about what it would be like to have an apartment slightly lower, and to walk up daily to that little grocery for milk.
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This leather shop smelled so much like leather!
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So many streets like this.
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The cathedral is ahead.
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They all look much alike.
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Karen PoretBrothers, all? Or just “relative”..;)
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Steve Miller/GrampiesTo Karen PoretFrom a Catholic statue mill?
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Cute gargoyle
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This building...the house of the dean of the cathedral..
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Had some Jewish headstones
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A little further on, look at this Roman wall!

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and another roman remnant
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I liked this multi-coloured facade
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In this area, the stone underfoot is marble!
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We ran into a store selling the nationally known Vicens brand of nougat. They have so many varieties!

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Nearby is this "trompe oeil" building.

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Karen PoretIronically, the bulb “placement” on (female at extreme right) appears to be another “blowing a bubble”, or perhaps a microphone 😬
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Some of the detail:

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Beside the "trompe oeil", more remnants of the Circus.
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You can see all the Roman bits scattered through the town.
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If walking made you hungry, how about some grilled cuttlefish?
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That stroll was 4 km. You could do lots more around this town!

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Today's ride: 44 km (27 miles)
Total: 3,696 km (2,295 miles)

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