Day. 46 : Monthermé to Remilly-Aillicourt

September 24, 2024

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Dodie set the alarm for 6 a.m., a time when it remains absolutely pitch dark outside. I pointed out that with the advance of the season, such extreme timings were not going to make sense. But she came back with the claim that it would soon be light. I told her that no amount of hand waving would prevent the earth from carrying on with its journey around the sun. But she poo poo'd that. Strangely, by the time we were ready to go, it was light outside. So maybe I will not place any further bets on the earth vs Dodie, two interesting unstoppable forces.

It had been so easy to get into enjoying the laid back, agricultural, bike friendly world of the Netherlands, that we were slow to accept and embrace eastern Belgium and now this bit of northern France. It was Scott Anderson's comment yesterday on a photo of Givet "What a great looking place!" that had me going back and admitting that he was right! Also, looking out our window this morning, I could see that we were de facto in a mountain village, something that I can appreciate - once I know about it!

To boot, this Trans Ardennes Voie Verte - we came upon it fairly unknowingly (just thinking we were taking "EV 19") and so have been slow to assimilate just how great it is. Had I planned on doing this 130 km paved river side run from back at home, then I would likely be burbling about wow, can't believe we are now finally on it! Anyway, now that we are drawing to the end of it, I can still burble "Wow, it's great that we were on it!"

None of this, though, keeps us from grousing about the lack of bicycle infrastructure and marking within towns like Monthermé. The painted bike symbol in the photo below is one of four in the town, all on the bridge. It is the one I was gesturing towards yesterday while being tailgated by a driver. Today, thanks to that early wake up, most drivers were still in bed, dreaming of what cyclists they could later harrass.

We took to the trail, repeating to ourselves something we had read in a panphlet - "This is a remote stretch of the river".

Still, there were numerous towns along the way:

Also in Bogny, up on a hill, is a monument to the "Four Sons of Aymon". According to an Ardennes tourism site: "According to legend, the four sons of Duke Aymon, Renaud, Allard, Guichard and Richard are four valiant knights, young, handsome, strong and upright, with proud eyes and loyal gaze. They are part of Charlemagne's court and their life is a succession of tournaments, pleasures and feasts. But during a game of chess, Renaud mortally wounds Berthelet, Charlemagne's nephew. The four brothers are then forced to flee the fury of the emperor. Mounted on the fairy horse Bayard, which they received from their cousin Maugis, the enchanter, from the fairy Oriande, the four brothers who have become outlaws take refuge in the Ardennes forest. They built Montessor Castle there, on a steep promontory in the Meuse valley. But Charlemagne finds them and orders the siege of the castle. The castle is taken by treachery, and the Aymon sons, with Bayard, then lead a wandering life in the Ardennes forest for three years, then, they return to their father's castle before leaving for other adventures which will lead them into the South of France and towards Germany. The protruding rocks, on the heights of Bogny-sur-Meuse, have the appearance of four riders on a galloping horse, an eternal memory of the Ardennes epic of the knights having inspired a very popular song of gestures in the Middle Ages."

A little further along, we encountered this cyclist in white. "Been on the Voie Verte long?", I inquired. I took his silence to imply consent.

We reached Charleville-Mezieres, reading in our booklet that Charleville is the newer of the joint cities, being from the 17th century, while Mezieres is a medieval town, containing the basilica of Notre Dame de l'Esperance. No matter, in the rain and wind that we had been dealing with all day, and lacking any helpful signage about the towns, we just floated on down the river trail.

Something we do think we have noticed about Charleville-Mezieres is that is marks the end of the gorge-like cliffs on the river, and the generally tallish mountains all around. Things, as shown in the photo below, are more open, and we even saw some cattle grazing.

As we approached Sedan, we were in the area where the Germans had crossed the Meuse, on their way into Belgium. We could understand why the French had considered the Meuse and the Ardennes to be a good tank barrier, based on the cliffs and mountains and such that we had passed through. Indeed from Liege (or even Maastricht or Dordrecht) down, the Meuse is a vertical line that separates Germany from Belgium and France. The red marker (showing our position) is the logical spot if you want to make that dash into Belgium.

Dodie, as it turns out, did make a dash across the Meuse. But her target was not Belgium. It was the Intermarché just over the bridge. After looting their salads and cheese, we retreated back across the river and proceeded to our Logis hotel, the Sapiniere in Remilly-Aillicourt.

Our room at the Sapiniere is the traditionally small French affair, but for some reason it features a huge bathroom. The owner was quite proud of this as he showed us the room, but why??

The forecast calls now for continued cold and rainy conditions, changing in some days to cold and colder. But we are headed South. Maybe things will warm up...

Today's ride: 62 km (39 miles)
Total: 2,257 km (1,402 miles)

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Michael HutchingReading of those towns reminds me of cycling the Meuse in 2018. It’s an interesting route. The trail was pretty good as far as Verdun, though I think dedicated paths were a little intermittent. At Verdun we decided we needed a change of scene and headed over to Strasbourg. Will be interested to see how the rest of the trail goes. Enjoying your observations. Kia kaha! Michael.
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1 month ago

Steve Miller/GrampiesTo Michael HutchingWe are glad to hear thst by 2018 the route was good up to Verdun. We last cycled this way in 2015 and things deteriorated after Charleville-Mezieres. We are hoping the route has been improved all the way to Langres, at the source. Fingers crossed.
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1 month ago