Day 3: Boubiers to Nantes

August 11, 2024

Voyage of the Damned

We started the day around 6:30 a.m. and soon the lovely Ian brought us croissants, coffee, tea, and orange juice. This followed on the lovely vegan supper that Ian and Clare shared with us the previous evening. While food is not necessarily included in the price of the room, providing what people seem to need , for Ian and Clare, is. And we needed food, since we had had no chance to stock up.

Supper had been in the shade, in one of the many spots around the property. This was important, because we are in the midst of a a heat wave here, and the temperatures have been consistently over 30. This greatly added to the difficulty of our train trek to Nantes.

Although Boubiers is pleasantly situated in the rural "Vexin" region, about 60 km from Paris, it is in theory not totally isolated, because of the train line running through nearby Liancourt St Pierre. There had been news of the train being down, and replaced by a (not usable to us with the big bikes) bus. But by today, all was back in order, or at least there was no bus.

We set off toward Liancourt, with all the well wishes of Ian, and some photos which I guess I need to get him to send. Immediately we were in the lovely Vexin, with newly serviced bikes, lots of time to get to the 8:59 train, and a clear gpx track to the nearby station. Great! We even deviated from the track, which was on a small road, onto an even smaller road, and had time to spot a heron, strangely standing out in the middle of a dry field.

In Liancourt, we are almost at the train station, but this is not it!

Not exactly a bird, but we will photograph anything close!

As we cycled along the little road, we encountered two people clearly walking to the station. We jauntily informed them that there was plenty of time. These two, Corinne and Jean Sebastian, were to become instrumental in the first stage of our trip. What is was about was a flood of rapid fire French announcements on the platform, indicating something like either the train was not going to be able to get through, further down the line, or that it would be an hour late. Corinne, when they arrived, confirmed that yes, this was what it was all about. Now not only had Susan Carpenter replanned her own trip to Bourgogne to be able to ride with us from the terminus of this line St. Lazare station in Paris, to the station for our train to Nantes (next step in getting to Nantes), which was Austerlitz station, but we had a memory glitch and were thinking that the train from Austerlitz was a lot earlier than really is was. So we freaked. We started sending messages to Ian, to see if he could fire up the truck and get us to St. Lazare in time. St. Lazare station is in the heart of Paris, so this was no small ask, and beside even a truck (or especially a truck) is not getting in there all that fast.

But as it turned out, Ian was out on his bike, and did not get our messages at first. So now with the train approaching, we had to make a fast decision - stay and hope Ian could help, or go, and likely languish on a stalled train down the line.

Once on the train, it looked like an arrive at St Lazare was not only predicted, but the time was not really all that late! Our decision had been good.

Jean Sebastian pointed out our starting station on the map in the coach. As you see, the system is quite complicated, which also means some resiliance or redundancy.

Although Boubiers is totally rural and bucolic, this is still Paris, and vdery quickly on a train you are into the big city. Here out the window we see la Defence, the business district that has wisely been stuck somewhere that is not the historic core. We have never been there. This is the closest we want to be, anyway.

At St Lazare, we definitely were not in the country any more!

Unlike something like SeaTac in Seattle, you can find all sorts of great food at St Lazare.

Corinne and Jean Sebastian. We did not exchange addresses, so unfortunatly they will never see this portrait! Hey, does anyone recognize that third lady?

Yes, the very famous Susan Carpenter, prolific Cycleblaze blogger, and part time Paris resident! Susan came by Vellib, the public bike rental system.

Susan looks for a bike, for our ride to Austerlitz

There was some glitch with the bikes, and Susan had to scout around for one.

As soon as we stepped out of the station, there occurred for me what happens each and every time I step out out of a metro or other station in Paris, directly outside they have PARIS! Paris, with its gorgeous buildings, cafes, and elegant or inelegant Parisians, everywhere. This is by far the most beautiful and romantic city we have ever visited. I am blown away every time.

Susan check for another bike station. That building is Printemps, to us the #2 giant beautiful department store. Galeries LaFayette is #1.

And now, looking down a random street, one of the many typical cafes, with red awning.

The Paris opera, decked out with an Olympic poster.

The nearby Cafe de la Paix - with green and not red awning? Somewhere around here will be the bakery that originated the Opera torte, but no time for that right now.

And now quite quickly we are at the Louvre! Looking at the now iconic pyramid, I start babbling about the Da Vinci code.

Here is our own security. Susan guards the bikes as we take a quick look around.

This guy does seem well prepared (at least, nice pants!). There were many military people about.

From the Louvre we could see not only the Eiffel Tower, but a giant balloon that Susan said lit up and floated, during the Olympics, which closed today.

OK, we are off again! See the bike lane - a newish plus for Paris.

Susan and Dodie cautioned me not to be taking photos while in motion, cycling in Paris. Busted!

Notre Dame cathedral, still under reconstruction.

Along the Seine, a museum of oputdoor sculpture.

Of course, in any station, or any where, there is great food!

This Old World Sparrow helped us with our lunch.

Susan's Lumic broke, and she found a Canon substitute. Large zoom compact cameras are not made much any more. Here Susan looks at the behemoth I have foolishly brought.

At Austerlitz we seemed to be in for some good luck, as we cooperated with a young cyclist to lift our bikes onto the available hooks.

Things were fine, and the train was even cool, as we awaited departure. But then:

The sign says, you will never make your connection.

Everyone had to bail off the train, so our bikes came off their lovely hooks. Thr whole crowd then settled in an inadequate seating area to await developments. I had a backpack that could sereve as a pillow, so I was quite comfortable sleeping under my bike. Dodie had fun chatting with the others, among whom the rumour spread that the line had been sabotaged.

SNCF employee discusses the tough situation.

We were finally able to pile onto another train to Orleans. But the bike situation was not as comfortable. We and another cyclist plus a large pile of luggage had to clog up the corridor.

This man, who may have been the source of much of the luggage, was helping to regulate the passage of people in "our" corridor.

The yellow thing is the toilet, so we had lots of visitors. The other cyclist is visible in this shot as well.

This baby arrived for a diaper change. Dodie dug him/her out some wet wipes - good for keeping cool.

The next three shots are of signs that somehow describe the bike reservation rules. I don't recommend trying to read them!

Our next train somehow had to be Orleans to Tours. The conductor below was concerned about the corridor, and the reservations, but we dealt with him, somehow.

Conductor vs Dodie - where would you put your money?

Bikes are not interested in hanging on those hooks.

Somewhere just before Tours, a young man jumped on, much out of breath. He was a kayaker, who had travelled some long distance. He had been fishing in the Loire, and was so proud of the catfish he caught. I had been speaking to him in French, but his comprehension was poor. He turned out to be Serbian.

With the train change at (near) Tours, no bike elevator. These stairs were bloody steep!

Nowe on our final train - Tours to Nantes - we were almost a success. But as we lifted the bikes onto the only bike signed car, a conductor said "no way". We said, after all we have been through, "no way" is not an answer. These bikes are coming on, period! Well then, was the reply, we are not leaving. Fine, we replied, but the bikes stay on!

The resolution was that the man found us some space in the luggage area of some other car. We did actually have a bike reservation for this stage, on the Loire, but he never actually asked to see it. In the photo, two other cyclists who are visible, also explained how SNCF had thrown multiple monkey wrenches at cyclists today.

"Are you sure you have a reservation for these bikes?"

We arrived in Nantes before midnight, so we had achieved the simple journey Paris to Nantes in under 18 hours, and it was still TODAY. Not bad. Oner more set of stairs in the station and a brief night ride to the hotel, and honey we were home! But you can see why I have not posted the blog until - now - mid day, the next day.

Today's ride: 20 km (12 miles)
Total: 20 km (12 miles)

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Comment on this entry	Comment	4

Andrea BrownSuper impressive! I hope all the subsequent days of this trip are far more relaxing and enjoyable. And you got to ride through Paris!
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4 months ago

Suzanne GibsonWhat an ordeal! I'm so glad you made it! Quite a feat in the face of all those obstacles.
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4 months ago

Scott AndersonHooray! The trip is on!
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4 months ago

Carolyn van HoeveAnd so the obstacles continued. Unbelievable! But you made it. Hallelujah
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4 months ago