Go Ahead. Pave My Way

August 22, 2005

Sandy Hook to Sorrell Ridge Hiker/Biker Campsite

I stayed up late chatting with my hostel roomies. One was hiking to college in PA along the AT. He had just sent his dog home because the AT was wearing it out. He told me of an encounter with a mountain lion in Virginia. And I'm worrying about skunks!

On the road to the hostel, I passed a farm and home that had its own private football field.

I hit the road at 7:30 long before the hikers had awoken. The hostel is up one really steep hill that wore me out at the end of the day yesterday. Today I was rewarded with a speedy and cool downhill. Yes, the temperature was barely 70 degrees and I was loving it. Once back on the towpath I ground out the miles until reaching Shepherdstown West Virginia. To get there I had to ride up what seemed like a cliff. I met a runner who was running hill reps up the damned thing. Need less to say, he kicked my butt going up. Feeling somewhat humbled, I reached the main road that crossed over the Potomac to Shepherdstown.

The bridge to Shepherdstown was a long way up.

After a few more ups and downs I found what I was looking for, Betty's. This is a quintessential small town eatery. I hoovered some biscuits and gravy (when in Rome, eat what the Romans eat). Then I was back to business.

Betty's in Shepherdstown was up a long hill, but the food and pleasant staff were worth the trip.

The whole Betty's trip took an hour so it was already late morning. There was nothing to do but grind out the miles, so I did.

Old canal structures appear at most locks.

Some of the viaducts on the canal have been decked for easier crossing.

Another viaduct. In the past these were unrideable so the National Park Service gets a pat on the back from Nellie, Mike and me.

I stopped to talk to four Canadian bike tourists who where riding the C&O eastbound. They wanted directions to Antietam Battlefield but seemed to know more about the local roads than I did. I warned them about the water situation on the towpath further on.

I met the Canadian tourists along this stretch where the canal is dry.

On and on I rode grinding away at 10 mph. Even with the scenery, the pace was starting to get on my nerves. I reached McMahon's Mill and faced a trail detour on back roads. A passing cyclist warned me to walk the first half mile, a very steep hill. "Pshaw," I said, or something like it and proceeded to nearly kill myself going up the hill.

Once at the top, the road became a fantastic byway with curves and rollers that were perfect for hill hopping and speeds well over 15 mph. A gang of seven year old desperados stood by the roadside armed with pump action squirt guns. Another detour.I taunted them, yelling "Fire!" They missed.

All good things must end, and I was back on the towpath faster than you can say "sweet pavement o' mine."

I ground away to Williamsport, MD which is Mayberry on Oxycontin. I found a deli and ordered a turkey and cheese sandwich. The clerk asked if I wanted "a whole or half sandwich." I said "whole" and regretted it. It was huge and bland. It was however indisputably edible so I ate a half and stashed the rest for later.

A "whole" turkey sandwich. Half for me, and half for the critters?

Back on the trail I waved at an eastbound biker, fully loaded and in too big a hurry to stop. Enjoy the water, buddy.

At Fort Frederick I stopped and talked to an eastbound couple from New Jersey, who raved about the Western Maryland Rail Trail. A few miles farther on I found it. Pavement! Flat smooth pavement!

I flew 10 miles to Hancock, leaving the trail for grub. I found water and a Snickers bar at a liquor store, after a mile of hilly searching. Back on the trail I found a bike shop that was enormous. They sold recumbents which I would soon see on the WMRT. They also had a snack bar. I bought Gatorade, guzzled it and headed back to the WMRT.

The Western Maryland Rail Trail. Nice and smooth.

After an hour or so I was back on the towpath, thankful for the respite from the grind. The WMRT cuts through some impressive rock mountains. I gained an appreciation for how much climbing I had been avoiding.

I found a hiker/biker campsite along the trail. I stashed the turkey sandwich and my bag of hygene stuff in the porta potty to keep away the critters.

It's cool and nearly bug free but there are trains and dogs across the river in WV. Whoever says you can't have it all is right.

Today's ride: 89 miles (143 km)
Total: 167 miles (269 km)

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