Today was an exciting day for me. We got up at our usual hour (very early) and rode about six miles toward the extinct volcano on which the Phanom Rung, 10th-13th century Khmer sanctuary stands. At about that six mile mark the road started up Phanom Rung Mountain at a 10% grade which Andrea was not pleased about. But it was early, cool, birds singing, no traffic on the road, and walking the bike gave us the opportunity to exercise different muscle groups. It was a 600 foot elevation slog but well worth it once we finally found out exactly how to actually get to the temple. Surprisingly, we were the only people around and it took us a long time to figure out how to get through all the gobbledygook of tourist restaurants (not open yet) toilets, signs that said "Office" with arrows pointing in various directions, parking lots, a contemporary Thai temple and grounds, and other buildings. Every ancient site we go to is crying out for better signage. I don't get how such a basic thing can be so overlooked. But, we finally found the back door to the site. I hope it was not a scriledge to enter through the back door.
Phanom Rung is a Hindu shrine dedicated to Shiva and symbolizes Mount Kailash, his heavenly dwelling. So, apparently there was a road, like a pilgrimage route, from Angkor in Cambodia to Phimai in what is now Thailand in the 10th-13th centuries. The road is referred to as the Ancient Khmer Highway and was 140 miles long. There were other roads that the Khmers built but this was the most important one. The sanctuary at Phimai is the most important one and the destination from Angkor. Phimai sanctuary was built in the style and shape of Angkor Wat and it even faces Angkor. There were at least 17 small Prasats (sanctuaries) along the Khmer Highway where devotees of Hinduism could worship and stay the night. The Prasat Prang Ku, which we showed you bright and early on Jan. 1st and Prasat Muang Tam which we showed you yesterday, were two of these sanctuaries. The 17 Prasats dot the countryside in this part of Isaan and Phanom Rung was the most important first stop of these sanctuaries for the pilgrims about half their way to Phimai. It's all very fascinating to me to finally see some of these sanctuaries. Someday I will maybe get to see Phimai but for now getting to see Phanom Rung was treat enough.
On our way out of town we passed the huge baray of Prasat Muang Tam. Barays are where the ancient Khmer stored water. I can't imagine how many slaves it took to dig one of these a thousand years ago or how long it took them. The barays are a common site here and in Cambodia.
It was a shapely curve but the sign up ahead that states 8% can't be right. I think the Thais guess, and lowball these grades, so as not to discourage travelers.
Andrea taught herself how to read Thai and as we were walking this section she said, "Annterai," which I understood without seeing the sign first. I thought at first that Andrea had suddenly learned some more Thai but then I saw that she had sounded out the letters which I can't read one word of. It means 'Dangerous'. But this is how we get by better in Thailand; she reads it and I maybe understand.
The Phra Narai lintel. Vishnu reclining on a Naga of sorts. Unfortunately, the goddess Parvati who is at his feet, has been damaged. Parvati is Shiva's wife so I'd like to know why she is hanging out with Vishnu. This is the most important lintel and is above the eastern doorway to the main sanctuary.
Shiva dancing just above the Phra Narai lintel. As I understand it, if Shiva dances gently he is the god of creation but if he dances wildly he is the god of destruction.
Interesting that there is a Bodhi tree sprouting in the rock. The Bodhi tree is the tree under which Buddha gained enlightenment. It is revered as such a sacred tree that they must be left to grow wherever they sprout. This one is on a Hindu sculpture. The age old competition of religions! If left alone the Bodhi tree will certainly tear these rocks apart.
How this stone carving has remained so beautiful for a thousand years is beyond my comprehension. It's sandstone which I've always thought of as quite a soft stone.
School kids on to the next site. It's really great that Thailand has these outings for the kids all the time. They learn to appreciate their own country and culture. We see these field trips all the time.
