To Whitehaven

July 28, 2022

We have the best table in the dining hall at Rivendell Guest House. Tucked into a bay window with a wraparound view of the street and sidewalk we have a good view as umbrellas pop out and people start quick-walking down the street. Raining, and quite hard at the moment.

By the time we check out at 10 though it’s stopped; and with luck it looks like we might get that three to four hour break we need to make it to Whitehaven dry. It looks possible from both of the dueling weather apps, but we’re especially concerned about what we’ll find when we climb a thousand feet to cross over Whinlatter Pass. Looking out at the hills with their tops still blanketed, we’re skeptical.

We enjoy a warm sendoff from Deb, with hugs around and wishes that we’ll see each other again down the road someday. We’d certainly stay here if we’re lucky enough to return; and next time, she tells us, just contact her directly for the best rate as she slips us a business card on the way out so we can share it around. Which I would, but I’ve inexplicably lost it between then and now, so here’s the link.

Deb, our hostess at Rivendell Guest House. Best host of the tour, if our memory serves correctly.

The ride begins by backtracking my route back to town yesterday. After a couple of easy miles leaving town we start climbing, slowly rising 800 feet in the next two miles up a grade that steepens to 16% at the worst and has more in the 10-12% range than my weary legs are enthusiastic about. They remind me that they’ve lifted me nearly 8,000’ in the last few days, and isn’t it about time for a break?

Crossing the over Derwent on the quiet way out of Keswick.

A slightly obscured look at the River Derwent.

We’re only getting half the Skiddaw treatment this morning. Hopefully the floor of the clouds is above the summit of the pass ahead.

Looking ahead to the climb that starts soon, I’ve got my eye on the bird running down the track ahead of me. I’ve stopped for a shot a few times, but he won’t look around and is getting too far off now.

Unexpectedly he turns back and starts running along the track straight at me, stopping regularly to peer into the hedgerow. Maybe he’s lost and forgotten his address. Some flavor of partridge. Chukar?

The viewpoint halfway to the top gives me an excuse to stop for a last look back at Bassenthwaite Lake.

Happy to have made it over the top dry (and happy just to have made it over the top period), we coast back down for most of the next three miles, keeping our speed under control because the road is still damp in spots and there’s the usual single track road with blind curves and occasional oncoming car situation to be managed.

A nice stand of beech trees gives an excuse to brake the descent.

The descent bottoms out at low Lorton, whose name sounds just right in this context. After that we enjoy a relaxed ride for the next five miles, slightly climbing as we ride past pastures and villages giving us a series of fine views of lakes and cloud-capped high ground.

Looking back toward the high country. There are still climbs ahead, but the land gradually flattens out as we near the coast.

in Loweswater and looking south toward Crummock Water, where I was biking yesterday. Around the bend at its far end is Lake Buttermere.

Loweswater, one of the smaller of the many lakes in the national park

The view northwest toward the coast. A much different look from yesterday’s.

Beyond Loweswater the weather starts concerning us a bit as it begins lightly misting. Enough to cause me to wrap the electronics and start keeping an eye out for shelters, but nothing comes of it. More concerning are the last two steepish climbs ahead, which are almost one climb too many for my weary 75 year old legs. Finally though we top out and face a gradual, relaxed 12 mile descent, the last ten of it on the pleasant, quiet, asphalt surfaced Whitehaven to Ennerdale Cyclepath that carries us right into the heart of Whitehaven.

We’re in Whitehaven for just one night, staying in the Chase Hotel. We’ll have a look about town later when we go out for dinner, but for now we’re happy to just stay dry in our room until the rain ceases, enjoying warm showers and lunch.

At the beginning of a well earned 12 mile descent. Windy and chilly, but dry for now.

At the start of the rail trail. It’s lined with bright waymarkers like this with the list of towns and villages ahead. The weather is worsening a bit, prompting us to break out the pannier covers for the first time since we left France if I’m remembering correctly.

She’s only wrapping the right bag because the weather’s coming from that direction.

On the Whitehaven to Ennerdale Cyclepath.

Hiding out briefly beneath an overpass, waiting to see which way the weather is going to go.

Video sound track: Vapallia, by Keith Jarrett

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Ride stats today: 31 miles, 2,500’; for the tour: 1,420 miles, 73,000’

Today's ride: 31 miles (50 km)
Total: 1,420 miles (2,285 km)

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Graham FinchGive yourself a slap on the back - and enjoy a pint - for managing to write up each day's events. I'm struggling here to get a page done each day.
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2 years ago

Kelly IniguezThat is a lot of stuff climbing! I hope you rewarded yourself accordingly!
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2 years ago

Scott AndersonTo Graham FinchDone, and thanks. It probably seems pretty compulsive, but it’s of necessity. At my age I’d forget it all if I didn’t write it down.
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2 years ago