To Nether Wasdale

July 29, 2022

We’re happy to have an easy ride ahead of us to Nether Wasdale this morning - short, not too hilly, the weather’s fine. The plan is to arrive there early and allow time for a hike before dinner. There’s been discussion about what sort of hike to attempt today, particularly because it look like rain is possible tomorrow. We’ve loaded a few routes to the Garmins and will decide when we arrive.

The ride begins by backtracking our way in yesterday on the rail trail. We saw this and similar spots then, but I didn’t stop to point out creative spots like this where scraps from the old rail line were used to create rest spots.

We mostly just rode, but I did stop for one look east toward the sea just behind this low ridge. You’d think I’d have done so in a spot where you can actually see it though, huh?

We stopped for a quick lunch in Gosforth, a pretty village that looks like it might make a nice overnight.

Saint Mary’s Church, Gosforth. Note the impressive cloud formations building up. By the time we arrive in Wasdale the morning’s blue skies will have passed on.

Dropping toward Nether Wasdale, the massive scree slope above Wast Water comes into view. It’s clear we’re coming to an exceptional place.

With our usual ignorance, we arrive in Nether Wasdale without actually knowing much about the place. I picked it out from the map that looked like it would get us fairly deep into the park while avoiding the busier roads and towns we’d have found by biking down the middle through touristy, twee Windermere. Nether Wasdale is nearly at a dead end, with the pavement ending five miles on just past the end of its small lake, Wast Water.

We don’t know yet that this spot is famous. Wast Water lies in a stunning valley, with its southern shore hemmed in by an astonishing 2,000’ high wall that drops from its summit in a scree slope that must be angled at 45 degrees. At the far end of the lake are arrayed a row of dramatic peaks that include Scafell Pike, the highest ground in England.

Wast Water, three miles long, half a mile wide and 260 feet deep, is the deepest lake in the country. The entire lake and much of the surrounding high ground is owned and protected by the National Trust. The view across and along it has been cited as the best view in England. Good thing we just happened by!

As we’re descending toward our hotel I realize that taking a hike is the wrong idea for the afternoon, at least for me. It’s clouding over, it might rain tomorrow, and now is our best opportunity to get a view of the lake. I bring this up with Rachael, she quickly agrees, and we keep biking out to the end of the road.

Nether Wasdale is about a mile from the lake. As we roll our way up and down to it I stop to admire this stunning oak.

The pavement ends at about a mile past the far end of the lake at Wasdale Head. The road there is winding, lumpy, very narrow, and carries enough motorized and hoofed traffic that you’re constantly torn between tending to personal safety and taking in the astonishing views. An exceptional landscape, and one I’d love to see in other conditions - especially with some sun illuminating the slopes, which happens only very briefly today in a few small patches. Maybe we’ll be lucky tomorrow, but if this is all we get it’s still splendid.

To the end of the road. At the far end rise Yewbarrow on the left, Great Gable up the middle, and the lower slopes of Scafell Pike on the right.

It looks like a fantastic spot to be out on the water. On the other side are the famous Wasdale Screes, a very unstable 2,000’ slope of rocky rubble. There’s a ‘trail’ along the bottom that’s a hazardous boulder hopper. Rescue crews are often called upon to bail out folks stuck on the slopes. The hike along the top is said to be exceptional though.

Folks in England can’t part with their dogs, it seems.

As much sun as we’re going to see this afternoon briefly brightens the nose of Scafell Pike.

Emerald hued Yewbarrow makes a remarkable sight. It looks like there’s a walking trail up that zipper.

At the end of the lake is this view up Lingmell Gill. On the left is Lingmell; on the right, Sca Fell; and in the center, Scafell Pike - the highest peak in England.

She’s been to the end of the road and back again. Time to turn around.

The view west. It looks possible that the day could yet brighten a bit, but it doesn’t really happen.

Except for about one or two minutes when a small window passes across the Wasdale Screes and gives you an idea of what they might look like in the best conditions.

Video sound track: The End of the Road, by Kim Waters

Heart

Comment

Link

Patrick O'HaraStunning scenery!
Reply to this comment
2 years ago

Ride stats today: 31 miles, 2,100’; for the tour: 1,451 miles, 75,100’

Today's ride: 31 miles (50 km)
Total: 1,451 miles (2,335 km)

Rate this entry's writing	Heart	11
Comment on this entry	Comment	2

Graham Finchdave, debbie and I ventured up the track at the end of Wast Water.... it was a test:

https://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/page/?o=3d2&page_id=289167&v=AN
Reply to this comment
2 years ago

Scott AndersonTo Graham FinchGreat way to celebrate your birthday! I read this to Rachael while she was doing her morning stretching exercise, and she thanked me for being me and not you. We’ve never done anything remotely like that.
Reply to this comment
2 years ago