With a population of roughly 140,000, Ipswitch is one of the largest places we’ll stay in England. Knowing almost nothing about the UK when I started sketching out an itinerary through tot half a year ago I just connected the dots between a number of places like Ipswitch that look well worth visiting and have a good reputation - Canterbury, Colchester, Ipswitch, Norwich, Lincoln, York, Carlisle, and so on. I viewed them as the natural spots for a layover day or two - take a day ride, visit the sights in the city, and find a good restaurant. Sounds like a perfect plan.
And they are interesting and worth a visit, obviously. The thing is though, when we get to places like this we never seem to actually spend that much time looking around them unless we’ve been rained out. We find the restaurants of course, but mostly what we like to spend our time on is biking and hiking; and in larger places like Ipswitch you have to work through a few miles of city before you’re really out onto quiet roads.
That’s what’s happened here, as I realize leaving town this morning when we bike through an interesting, colorful part of the city on the way out of town not five blocks from our hotel. There was a good walk to be had right in the vicinity of our room, but the best look we’re getting is a hurried one on our way out of town.
Our two night stay in Maldon was a revelation to us. A small but appealing place, easy to orient yourself to, easy to enter and leave. Possibly our favorite stays in England so far. More like that one, we think.
Over the last month we’ve probably made a half dozen changes to the UK plan, cancelling bookings in larger places and fitting in more multi-day stays. And we’re still at it - at the end of the day I review our bookings once again with a critical eye and find another larger place to prune out: our two night booking in Lincoln. We discuss it over dinner and drop it out, adding second nights to our bookings in much smaller Boston and Louth.
Anyway, back to the ride. Here’s a bit of Ipswitch as we leave town.
It takes us about four miles of urban cycling until we’re finally out of it - safe enough for the most part, but riding the sidewalks and waiting for lights to change make a slow start for the day. Once we’re out of it though much of the day’s ride is relaxed, quiet and appealing. And like yesterday it’s mostly a traverse through open, clean farmland with broad views and just enough contour to be interesting.
Here’s a long green stretch that’s less attractive than it looks here. We’re paralleling A14 and never out of hearing range of its constant traffic.
I forgot to mention that it’s quite windy, which works in our favor today. This youngster looks a little wobbly still, with his tail and short mane blown sideways.
Because the NCN values diversity, today we’re gifted with a short stretch on a bridle path. Not particularly steep, but rocky and sandy enough that pushing was the better plan.
Crossing the Gripping River on Hawks Mill Bridge, Needham Market. I should have stopped to find a better vantage point for it but traffic congestion was a distraction.
I wondered at first if this might be another style of oast, but I think it’s a former windmill. My evidence, the cottage across the street named Windmill Cottage.
Nearing Bury, a pedestrian overpass crossing the tracks gives us an elevated perspective. Rachael was disappointed later to hear that I didn’t take a photo of the overpass and its zigzag ramps, which was also interesting. I’ll remind her of this the next time she gripes that I’m stopping for too many photos.
Video sound track: With You in Mind, by Acoustic Alchemy
Bury St Edmonds is immediately appealing, and just our kind of place. A much smaller place than Ipswitch but big enough. We quickly fall in love with the town and with our apartment with its remarkable situation directly across the street from the cathedral. As I’m writing this the morning after morning it’s Sunday and the bells are chiming right outside the window and will continue for the next half hour (correction - they keep at it for a full hour).
We congratulate each other on our good decision to stay here for four nights and then start looking at restaurants. I’m sure we’ll be seeing more of this place in the days ahead, but here’s a starter to give you a flavor.
Abbeygate Street, the pedestrianized commercial heart of town. Its name comes from the other end, where it ends at the main gate to St Edmunds Abbey. We’ll see the gate when the light is better.
This isn’t the Abbey Gate. This is the cathedral gate entrance, also interesting. I took the shot because I liked the shadows. (A correction: actually, it is the Abbey Gate).
A partial view of the cathedral (on the left) and the Norman tower next to it. The cathedral is too close to give a good straight-on photo of. I’d need a fish eye lens.
It’s nice to be able to just sit around on the couch and look out the window from time to time waiting for good lighting on this feature of the cathedral.
