To Blandford Forum

August 31, 2022

I’m feeling mixed emotions as we leave Salisbury this morning. On the one hand, I’ll miss this place and am sorry we’re leaving so soon. It’s one of the most pleasant and interesting places we’ve stayed in England, and our apartment was perfect for us.

The living room/kitchen of our unit in Pear Street Serviced Apartments. Spacious enough that even Team Anderson can’t manage to overwhelm it with clutter.

On the other hand, there’s the excitement of moving south and on to the final days in England. We’re only two travel days from reaching the southern coast now, and there are so few remaining stays that it’s easy to tick them off in our heads: Blandford Forum tonight, then Bridport, Seaton, Exmouth, Okehampton, Tavistock, and then the ferry to Brittany. We’ll be in France again in a week and a half! We’re starting to mentally transition, envisioning a return to simple French breakfasts (no more stuffing ourselves on a Full English to start our days) and to lunch breaks with wedges of cheese, French bread and sliced meats rather than bags of trail mix and peanut butter sandwiches.

Today’s ride to Blandford Forum begins with the same ride west along the Wylye that we took on our one day ride from here. I like this because for one, it’s easy for the first several miles and lets us ease into the work; and for another it takes us through Wilton again, a town that deserved a second look.

An attractive church on Market square greets us to Wilton as we’re waiting for the light to change.

A closer look at the masonry of a house in Wilton from three days back, for those who were curious about it.

Wilton House, built about 400 years ago on the grounds of the former Wilton Abbey. The home of the current Earl of Pembroke. The Pembrokes have lived here since Henry VIII handed the abbey and it’s attached estates to the 1st Earl of Pembroke after the dissolution of the abbeys.

I’m glad for a second chance to see this unlikely church, which looks like it belongs in Italy. It’s the St Mary and Nicholas Church, built by the Pembroke family in the 1800’s for reasons only they could explain.

The church was built in an Italian Romanesque style, complete with a leaning 33 meter tall campanile, a Byzantine-style apse and imported medieval stained glass windows.

From Wilton we turn south and start climbing over the crest of Wylye Down and then dropping to the next river south, the Ebble. We’re still reversing Monday’s route here, but this time we’re helped up the climb by a stiff northeast tailwind that probably lops 2-3% off the effective grade of the slope.

Reversing Monday’s crossing of this ridge Rachael again splits the two giant beech trees crossing the road, traveling south this time.

A swift, green descent to the River Ebble.

Three flat, fast upriver but downwind miles bring us to Broadchalke, where we turn south once more and begin the second climb of the day: up Knowle Hill, and then losing it all with the descent to the Allen River. Right after that there’s a third climb, up yet another ridge before dropping to the River Crane and Cranborne where we stop for lunch.

The best views of the day come from the summit of Knowle Hill.

From the nameless summit of the third climb of the day.

None of the three climbs has been as challenging as we expected. They all make it up to the 10-13% range but stay manageable; and the winds undoubtedly help. It also helps that Rachael’s gears all work fine when she’s riding her lower chainring, which in this country is nearly all the time. There’s some issue in the upper chainring but that’s not a big concern because we don’t really need it - we’re not racing.

We have lunch on a well placed bench beside the road in Cranborne. While we’re sitting there in the sun admiring the tranquil village scene Nick from New Forest pedals up on his fully loaded eBike and stops for a prolonged chat. He’s on a short getaway biking down to I think Christchurch. We enjoy talking about the pros and cons of eBikes, the hills of Wales, having a home to return to, and the advantages to seeking out routes along rivers and canals. Finally we notice that the sun has broken through the clouds again and it’s heating up just standing around, our cue to move on.

Our lunchtime view in Cranborne. Looks like a very nice place to stay. I especially like the badger crowning the signboard.

Passing the time with Nick from New Forest.

The rest of the ride is relatively easy and goes fast, except for one short, steep climb that surprises us by capping out at 17%; and we surprise ourselves by each staying in the saddle for it. We arrive in Blandford at 4, a half hour too early to check in so we hole up in the dining area of a nearby supermarket over bottles of sparkling water until our time has come.

We’re staying here for two nights at Saint Leonard’s Farmhouse, a very nice B&B that gives us a somewhat poor first impression - it appears at first that no one is at home and neither of the two phone numbers is answered; but then the door pops open, so maybe she’s just arrived when we have. Once we’re past that and some initial uncertainty about whether there’s room for our bikes in the garage it’s all good though. We’re shown to our comfortable room, the Badger room - there are badger photos and images peeking out from five or six places as we look around. Our host tells us that it’s a fine area for wildlife, with the Stour running through the heart of town. There are indeed badgers about, and foxes; and even otters in the river. Looks like a nice if quiet place to hang out for two nights.

Navigation assistance along the way, as well as a respite if one was needed. Below the sign is a ring of benches where you can sit awhile.

Descending toward the River Stour (rhymes with hour).

Video sound track: Everyday, by Classic Dream Orchestra

In a first, my panniers are protected by a guard badger. He looks like he’d like to travel, so I’ll have to be careful when we leave that he doesn’t hop in one as a stowaway.

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Ride stats today: 38 miles, 2,600’; for the tour: 2,334 miles, 137,900’

Today's ride: 38 miles (61 km)
Total: 2,336 miles (3,759 km)

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Emily SharpLooks like you've had a great summer and that England/Wales have exceeded expectations. I hope all the external factors continue to be kind and you have a great autumn in France.
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2 years ago

Scott AndersonTo Emily SharpYou’re right, Emily. It’s all been much more interesting and rewarding than I’d been expecting. I wish we had come sooner.
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2 years ago