In Conwy: Penrhyn Castle

August 3, 2022

I can’t believe it. I’m such a slug and didn’t do anything with the blog last night when I had plenty of free time available. The thinking was that I’d do it this morning while we waited for the expected morning showers to pass by.

The showers didn’t materialize though, and we’ve reshuffled our plans for the day accordingly. We’re off soon on a bike (he) and hike (she), so we’re going to let the photos stand for the day’s record. I’ll try to regain my discipline and do better tomorrow.

Oh, one more comment. No video, because Rachael forgot her GoPro. Very disappointing, because she loved the ride and really wanted to record it. We’re likely to get a second chance though, so stay tuned.

I started the day by walking down to the waterfront to check it out before morning coffee. Beautiful, a great time to be out. No one here but me and the gulls.

Conwy Castle. More about it later, when we visit it and walk the walls.

Looking across the mouth of the River Conwy, which empties into the Irish Sea just northwest of here.

And the river. The Irish Sea is just around the bend.

Walking back to the apartment. Conwy’s walls are almost completely intact after all these centuries.

Coffee and breakfast behind us, we’re on the road on a planned out and back to Bethesda. The ride starts with this brilliant waterfront path to the mouth of the river. Quiet now, but by the time we return it will be slow going working past the walkers and strollers.

This photo’s a disappointment. It’s very windy today, with a 15+ mph headwind that we fight on the way west but will love later. Light is flashing across the hills and water through the broken cloud cover, and perhaps a half minute ago the hillside ahead was bright and golden. Too late by the time I got the camera out and focused.

Timed a bit better, but the first formation was more colorful.

Looking across the mouth of the River Conwy at Llandudno peninsula. Looks like a great hiking area, and there’s a cable car to the top.

We’re further west now, looking back. Llandudno on the left, the mouth of the river is the gap, and Conwy is on the other side of the high formation - Mynydd y Dref (aka Conwy Mountain), I think.

Looking north across the Irish Sea. That’s Puffin Island, I think.

Northern Wales is famous for its slate quarries, but I think this is the granite quarry operated by Penmaenmawr & Welsh Granite Co.

It’s a brilliant ride the whole way, even along the part of the route that parallels the busy coast highway.

Our plans for biking to Bethesda go out the door when we unexpectedly come to the entrance gate for the vast grounds of Penrhyn Castle. We saw the huge castle from a distance and decide to drop down to explore it. We’re there long enough that we decide this was meant to be the right destination for the day instead.

The gate grounds of Penrhyn Castle are in a privileged location, on a plateau above Bangor with huge views along the coast. Here we’re looking back north east toward Conwy, with the Llandudno Peninsula looking like an island from this distance.

Penrhyn Castle is immense. It’s also puzzling because it’s in such fine condition - no eroded or broken down walls or parapets anywhere.

It’s in such fine condition because it’s so new, built in the early 1800’s. And it’s not really a castle - it’s a mock-castle, someone’s dream home built in the Norman style. It makes me think of the Hearst Castle on the California coast.

So who was Penrhyn, and where how did he amass the wealth to build this chalet? Not the prettiest story, really. He ran one of the largest of the slate mines, but much of his wealth came from Jamaica where his plantations were staffed by about a thousand slaves. Penrhyn was an avid anti-abolitionist, ferociously opposed to the ending of slavery.

Another look at the views before leaving the castle grounds. This is Llandudno again.

And this is looking back along the coast toward Conwy again, though I didn’t realize it at the time.

Leaving the estate. We don’t know what was going on here as a large cloud of dust wafted across the road. Interesting effect though.

Christ Church, Llanfairfechan. Nice church, awesome tree.

The wind is still here, and we fly back. We’re facing Conwy Mountain again in no time.

And Llandudno again, with the tide in this time. A brilliant ride, one we may repeat before leaving.

Heart

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Ride stats today: 32 miles, 2,000’; for the tour: 1,556 miles, 83,200’

Today's ride: 32 miles (51 km)
Total: 1,555 miles (2,503 km)

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Graham FinchAntique dealer and TV series host Drew Pritchrd has a shop in Conwy. I visited a church in Builth where he bought a bench from. There's a clip of it on YouTube...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5S-tfKW6zT4
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